Thanksgiving Reflections

Being away during the holidays is always hard. I remember when I was studying abroad in Rome during Thanksgiving and it was such a depressing day. It was raining and dreary and for the first time in those 3 months I really felt lonely. How ironic is it that my second Thanksgiving away from home, this time in the beautiful oasis that is the Philippines, it's also raining? Typhooning actually. So instead of sunbathing and visiting stunning waterfalls and not caring at all about what's going on at home; here I am sitting in a cute little beach cafe, listening to the rain and longing to be at home surrounded by all of my friends and family. But immediately after writing that, I realize how lucky I am to feel this way. How blessed am I that I have such amazing people in my life? In fact I have too many blessings to even count. Traveling has opened my eyes to how truly lucky I am. Living in America, or any other first world country, makes it easy to turn a blind eye on the hardships faced by half the world. We get so caught up in our privileged lives that we never realize how privileged we actually are. Having a roof that doesn't leak, a home with more than one room, hot water to bathe, clean water to drink, healthy food to eat, clean clothing, a bed to sleep on, a car to drive, and an income to maintain these things are all luxuries that we take for granted.

 I am grateful for this eye opening journey, for this opportunity to see the world, to follow my dreams, and to truly live. I wake each day with a grateful heart and I'm learning to see the beauty in every situation. 

There is beauty in every situation. 

I'm not sure if I will ever understand how or why I was dealt such a good hand in life when others who seem more deserving were not, but I will continually be thankful. Not just today, but every single day. 

Wishing a Happy Thanksgiving to all. May your hearts and bellies be extra full today. 

Xoxo Molly

Chasing Waterfalls

November 23:

I know I keep saying it but every day here gets better and better. I woke up planning to have a relaxing spa day but as I've learned in the past 2 months, you can never get attached to plans. You've got to be spontaneous and say yes to every opportunity that presents itself. So when a few people suggested we rent motor bikes and explore the island, I had to say yes. I hopped on the back of a bike and we rode 45 minutes across dirt roads looking for a waterfall that we'd seen a sign for. We got caught in a rainstorm and had to take cover in a local's garage and then, following directions from passersby, we found the path to the waterfall. Three little boys no older than 5 showed us the way along the path. Once again, a breathtaking view of a huge blue pool and 2 flowing waterfalls came into sight. We were the only foreigners there and were welcomed with smiles, waves, and lots of food. The genuine hospitality here never ceases to amaze me. Filipinos will literally give you the shirt off their back if you seem interested. We met the sweetest lady who was excited to meet an American because "there are muslims in America!" and she herself is Muslim. She offered us food and although my body really did not want to eat white bread and cheez whiz I felt too rude refusing. Bryony complimented her on one of her rings and she took it off her finger right away and offered it as a gift. This is the norm here, comment on a specific possession and it will quickly become yours.

We also met a sweet local guy who spoke great english and became our guide for the day. He told us about a secret waterfall and after a little convincing he agreed to lead us to it. So there we were once again walking through the jungle, searching for our own private waterfall. It was smaller than the first and there was no 18ft cliff to jump off but it was gorgeous and it did have a long vine to swing around on like Tarzan. Our new friend Franz invited us to his house and of course we excitedly accepted the offer. We were all pretty sure we'd be going to a small hut with chickens and stray dogs roaming around the yard when all of the sudden we turned onto a road that led straight to the ocean and a beautiful white villa. It turns out that Franz has a swedish uncle who owns this villa and is renovating it to become a guest house. Set to open December 1st so if you are ever on the island of Busuanga in the Philippines, make your way to the town of Conception and stay at the Fear House Lodging. Franz will serve you delicious sticky rice, lemon garlic prawns, and San Miguel Lights while you relax on the balcony and watch the boats on the horizon. 

Unexpected adventures are always the best and you can't beat the authentic experience of spending the entire day with a local. 

Heaven on Earth

November 22:

I found heaven today. I'm still in awe of the beauty here and sometimes I have a hard time believing it's real. We chartered a boat for another day of island hopping and it was complete magic. Upon pulling up to the entrance of Barracudda Lake it looks similar to most other islands we've been to; giant rock formations and crystal clear ocean. This time we stepped off the boat onto some wooden stairs that appeared to cut right in between two of the rocks. Walk up about 10 steps, turn a corner, and the most breathtaking view comes in to sight. It's a cerulean blue fresh water lake enclosed in rock in the middle of the ocean. What's better is that it's completely empty. Our own private oasis. None of us could believe our eyes and the 100-watt smiles permanently stained our faces. Having spent so many days swimming in the overly salty water, the fresh water of the lake was so crisp and refreshing. I remember floating on my back in the middle of the lake and actually having the thought that I could die right then and there and be perfectly happy. It was that amazing. We climbed up jagged rocks and took turns cannon balling into the water. All of us giddy with amazement. I really never wanted to leave.

But alas, we had 4 more stops so I had to kiss Barracudda Lake goodbye and hop back on the water chariot and onto the next one. Kayungan Lake was very similar to Barracudda but is more well known so it was crowded with tourists in bright orange life vests and not quite as enjoyable (although still incredible). Plus there were no cool rocks to dive off. Next was Twin !agoon, a salt water lagoon accessed by swimming through an opening under the rocks during low tide. The water temperature changes from warm to cold every couple of feet and little black fish swim up and nibble at your toes. After the lagoon we went to Skeleton Wreck, a small shipwreck close to shore. I was completely uninterested in the wreck, I was far too fascinated by the swarms of striped fish swimming in a cloud around me. It was surreal being suspended in the water with hundreds of little fish swimming all around me, and the craziest part is that not one of them ever touched me. 

We finished the day with an hour laying on the beach and watched the sunset from the boat as we approached the shore. Today was absolutely magical and I'm going to sleep a very happy and grateful girl.

Under the Sea

Nov 21: Went scuba diving for the first time! It just may be one of the coolest things I've ever done. What better place to try it than in one of the top diving sites in the world? I admit I was scared at first, it feels awkward to only breathe through your mouth and I was a little panicked that I'd forget how to breathe once we went down but per usual, everything went off smoothly. Our first dive was only about 6meters (18ft? I'm terrible at the metric system. God damn you, America) and was just a reef dive which means lots of coral, sea anemones, and fishies. I held my instructors hand the entire time because I kept floating away but it still counts. After that we got back on the boat, had some lunch, and cruised to the next dive site. I felt like I was in a dream sitting on top of that boat, sailing across crystal blue ocean with tiny islands scattered all around me. Another moment where I pause to soak in reality and can't help but smile to myself as I think about how lucky I am to be here and to be doing what I'm doing. The second dive was even better. We were fortunate enough to experience diving to a shipwreck. And not just any shipwreck but a Japanese World War Two ship. It was covered in sea life and reminiscent of a mini Titanic. We swam inside and through a small room and then explored all around the ship. Such a cool experience! I had so much fun diving that I'm planning to get my open water certification in Thailand next month. You can pretty much dive anywhere there's ocean so I might as well get certified and be able to take advantage of all the great diving in Asia.

Heavy Seas

Nov 19: I've been dreading this ferry ride for days now. 7 hours is a long time to be on a boat. I wondered what the odds were that it would have air conditioning but I knew I was being too optimistic. Rei asked if I thought they'd sell sea sickness medicine on board and what type of snacks we might be able to buy. I assumed they didn't have any vending services on the boat. I'm thinking this is gonna be a real rough ride, likening it in my mind to the slow boat from Hyannis to Nantucket. Forgetting of course that I'm in a third world country and the slow boat on Cape Cod is a yacht compared to the wooden vestibule I'm currently sitting on. Think of it as a short hallway, with a long wooden bench on each side and a pig pile of backpacks on the floor in the center and that's pretty much what I'm looking at for the next 7 hours. I managed to score some prime real estate next to a window so I'm hoping this bad boy gets enough speed to offer some sort of a breeze. It's 8am and already sweltering hot. The one saving grace is that somehow there is free wifi on board and there's a chance that spotify might work. To Coron!

El Nido in a Nutshell

Nov 17: Every day here gets better and better. Today we hired 2 motor tricycles to take us to Nacpan beach about 30 mins away. We had to drive on a windy dirt road with potholes and rickety log bridges to get there and my hand was completely cramped from holding the railing so tight. These tricycles are so sketchy, we bottomed out twice and the one that Paige and Bry were in got stuck in the mud and they had to get out and push it. It was scary and hysterical at the same time. Nacpan itself is absolutely breathtaking. Crystal blue water and fluffy white sand. Again, I can't believe how deserted these beaches are! We played in the waves for a few hours, ate a little lunch at a beach shack and then jumped back in the metal cages on wheels. Our drivers dropped us off at an inconspicuous hut on the side of the road and an adorable adolescent Filipino girl offered to guide us on our hike to the waterfall. We trekked through the jungle for about 25 minutes before coming to the waterfall. There were a few locals there but they quickly cleared out once we arrived. We jumped in and swam around, the water was cold and refreshing compared to the ocean. I could've relaxed there for hours but we wanted to see the sunset so we took off early. I went back to the rasta restaurant for some reggae and a veggie salad for dinner. It isn't very vegetarian friendly around here so my diet has been consisting mainly of rice or a raw veggie salad. Not very exciting but still delicious and I'm not complaining.

Nov 18: For our last day in El Nido we rented a chartered boat with 5 other people from the hostel and did our own island hopping tour. The first stop was Secret Beach and we had to swim through a small opening in a rock to reach it. The tide was so strong that you had to wait to be pulled out and then ride the wave through the opening before it sucked you back. The second island we hit had the best snorkeling we've done so far. Bright blue starfish, sea anemones, clown fish, etc. Rei and B saw a shark while I was laying on the beach and that made the rest of the day a little scarier, especially when the next island required a solid 15 minute swim through dark blue water to get to a raft. The raft was made of rickety old wood that you could feel bending beneath you. We all jumped back into the water one by one to start our swim back and one of the French girls decided she wanted a running start. Her foot broke through the wood but luckily her weight was already forward and she made it into the water. Had she been hurt I would've felt bad but it was absolutely hysterical. After hours of snorkeling, BBQing, and swimming, we made our way to the final island, completely deserted and the perfect spot for watching the sunset. I had so many moments today where I had to stop myself and look around. I'm getting so used to the scenery in Southeast Asia that I have to remind myself to pause and breathe in the beauty of my surroundings. I try to soak it all in because I know there will come a day when it's just a beautiful memory.

Up early tomorrow to head to Coron, an island famous for its wrecks. We're taking a 7 hour ferry to get there and I could not be dreading it more. I hope they sell some sort of horse tranquilizer on board or else I'm not sure how I'm gonna get through it without getting sick. Coron better be worth it! On the agenda: scuba diving, beach days, and bungee jumping (Mom- don't freak out)

 

Philippines Thus Far

It's hard to keep up with the blogging and wifi is never a guarantee around here so I'm starting to keep a daily log of everything I'm doing and will post a few days at a time whenever I can. Taking this blog diary style. Here are the last 5 days!

Nov 12-13: Landed in Manila and got to the hostel late. Woke up and explored the city with Bryony, Paige, and Rei. We gorged ourselves on pancakes for breakfast and got lost amongst the beautiful gates of foreign embassies. Flew out to Puerto Princesa tonight and are heading to the underground river tomorrow and then on to El Nido! We had dinner tonight at the local hotspot. It reminded me of a carnival at home. Right on the water, dozens of little stands set up selling food and souvenirs. Filipino children chasing eachother around, teenagers sharing towers of beer, and adults dancing to the beat of the music. We were the only white people so you know it was authentic. I get nervous in those situations because I never know if were going to get robbed or raped. But as usual, everything was fine. I think Southeast Asians are known for their friendliness so maybe I should let my guard down a little. "Hello ma'am, thank you ma'am, you are very pretty ma'am!" Filipinos are so polite! Plus water here is FREE.

Nov 14: Woke up at 7am and hopped on a bus to check out one of the 7 natural wonders of the world! The underground river is an 8km long river underneath caves of rock and calcium deposits. We had to take a motor boat to the opening of the cave and then hop on a paddleboat to actually go through the river. It was dark with bats flying around and water dripping from the ceiling but it's unlike anything I've ever seen. A total of 45 mins though and I was happy to see daylight again. We got back in the van and were on our way to be dropped at the bus station for El Nido when the van made an unexpected stop. Called Ugong Rock, we thought we were taking a bathroom break and ended up rock climbing through this cave and then ziplining to the bottom. So much fun! Hopped back in the van and held on for dear life as this driver drove roughly 100mph down a road that sharply turned left and right every 100ft. We finally made it to the bus station alive and climbed onto the bus to find it filled with Filipinos. Luckily I got the front seat and avoided car sickness for the next 6 hours. This country is breathtaking. Or atleast this island of Palawan is, and I'm sure the rest of it is just as gorgeous. We showed up having no idea where we were sleeping tonight, so happy to have made it to a hostel with a hot shower and working wifi. Plus our beds have curtains around them which I always love because its like my own little room. I don't know when I'll unpack my backpack again but I'm slowly adjusting to this lifestyle. I'm hoping I can survive without doing laundry until I get back to Bangkok in a month. I've resorted to not wearing underwear and most days the most I get dressed is a bathing suit and a sarong so I should be able to make it happen. Could really use a nail salon though, if my fingernails get any longer they're going to start growing veins.

Nov 15: A much needed day of relaxation today. Slept in a little bit, had free breakfast at the hostel (score!) and then headed to the most beautiful beach. Its a mystery to me why the Philippines are not a huge backpacking destination. Had this been in Thailand or Bali the beach would have been packed. Instead there were only a handful of tourists and a few local families. We swam in the ocean and napped in the sand all day. Had lunch in an adorable gazebo right on the beach. Sipped fresh fruit smoothies, ate veggie salad, and played scrabble before walking down the beach and passing out again. Woke up to the sun going down and a (slightly) cool breeze coming off the water. Ahh, paradise. Jumped on a tricycle taxi and explored the little town a bit. Stumbled upon a local basketball game and sat in the stands to watch the game as all the other spectators watched us instead (white people?!). Dinner cost about 85 cents and for $22 tomorrow were doing a full day island hopping tour. Can't wait!!

Nov 16: Had a full 8 hour day of island hopping. Snorkeling, swimming in secret lagoons amongst mountains of rock, and eating fresh seafood cooked right on the beach, today was complete bliss. You can't beat swimming with electric blue fish and watching the sun go down while swinging in a hammock on a desolate island. It took the better part of an hour to comb the dreads out of my hair and my legs are all scraped up from coral but it was totally worth it. (Even after the cuts and scrapes on my legs and feet, I still think water shoes are for dorks). Follow all of that up with dinner on the beach to the tunes of Bob Marley and I'm going to sleep a very happy girl. Oh ya and I dropped my laundry off! Sunday funday has been a success.

My First Thai Massage

Upon landing in Bangkok, I had 2 things I needed to do; eat pad Thai, and get a Thai massage. Following the recommendation of the hostel workers, I headed to Tony's Massage around the corner. For 100 baht I could get a one hour traditional Thai massage. That's roughly 3 USD, how could I possibly go wrong? I'll tell you how.

I proceeded to follow the Thai man upstairs to a small rectangular room consisting of 5 mattresses on the floor, 4 of them occupied and 1 behind a curtain that would become my torture chamber. The experience started off with a typical calf and thigh massage, my knots being kneaded out by the strength of this small Asian man. I typically never speak up during a massage when the pressure is too strong, always telling myself that the pain will be worthwhile in the end. But when I opened my eyes to see this man's elbow angrily digging into my thigh, I somehow found my voice. "Ouch, too hard" I said. To which my assailant flashed a sadistic grin and continued his attack. This was only the beginning. 

There came a point, when my foot was tucked behind my ear that I wondered if maybe, in the dim lighting of the room, this man had mistaken my 5'1" frame for that of an Asian. Surely he knows most westerners can not bend that way. Thank god for years of yoga or I may have seriously injured myself. When it was finally time to flip onto my stomach I was relieved, the shoulders are always my favorite part of a massage. Fast forward 5 minutes to a knee in my rib cage and thumbs pressing into my skull with the strength of an elephant. It was at this point that I began to fear for my life. Surely that much pressure on my neck and spinal chord can't be good. "Just breathe, you'll be okay, you will make it out of this alive" I told myself. And then the pressure increased. I was convinced my eyes were going to pop out of my skull and I wondered who it would be that would eventually find me here. Would I suffocate or would my head burst under the pressure of these inhumane Thai hands? I didn't want to find out the answer to that question.

After enduring 20 minutes of pain in my neck and shoulders, my torturer instructed me to sit up. I had just started to accept defeat, accept that I would walk out of this place with my lifeless arms dangling from the sockets, my knees shaking and buckling beneath me, when I heard it: a blood curdling scream coming from the woman two beds away from me. "I'm not alone" I thought, "she too is being tortured". I tried to communicate to the other victim telepathically, "I feel your pain, they are doing it to me too. Stay strong, we'll make it". The realization that I was not the only victim in the situation gave me the strength I needed to push through. I began to wonder if this establishment had ever been investigated, there's no way this is humane. And then I remembered that the staff at the hostel had actually recommended it. What kind of masochists am I staying with? 

One last karate chop to the back of my neck and the torture was finally over. I quickly threw my clothes back on, tossed the money on the counter and pushed my way to the sidewalk. I had made it out alive but a part of me would never be the same. My body had been contorted in ways I never thought possible. My brain, still trying to process what I had just endured, could not remember how to get back to the hostel. After a few wrong turns I made my way in a circle, back to the scene of the crime and managed to stumble my way home. 

"What have I done to deserve this?" A question that repeated itself in my mind throughout the "massage" remains to be unanswered. You've won this round Bangkok, but I'll be back.

*note: this story has been dramatized for comedic effect. I'll probably get another massage tomorrow. 

Until Next Time

Sad to be leaving Bali today. After a month and a half it really started to feel like home. Spent the last few days in Canggu, a surfer town on the west coast with beautiful beaches and beautiful people. It has a much more laid back vibe than some of the other popular beach towns and after the sensory overload in Ubud and Seminyak, I found it very refreshing. 

I found a gem of a hostel that felt more like a vacation home and met some pretty awesome people. If you are ever in Canggu stay at The Temple, for $14 a night you get a room cleaner than my own at home, a sweet pool, and a kitchen. Plus Berlin, the Balinese guy that runs it will show you a fun time and teach you to surf (or go catch some waves with you if you're already a pro). 

In the last 3 days I cruised around town on the back of a motorbike, watched the cotton candy colored sunset on the beach, learned to surf, taught my first yoga class, ate fresh Mahi Mahi and rice using a palm leaf as a plate and my fingers as utensils, and danced all night to live music at the local hotspot (Deus is the place to be on Sunday nights).  I'm really going to miss this place but I'm pretty sure I'll be back before long.

Off to Bangkok for the next 48 hours. I'm excited to do some solo exploring and see what this crazy city is all about. On my to do list: get multiple Thai massages, eat copious amounts of pad Thai.....that's all I've got (suggestions welcome). I don't speak a word of Thai and I have none of the local currency in my wallet, or any idea what the exchange rate is. But that's all part of the adventure..

Thailand here I come!

Life is but a Dream

I always hate goodbyes. They are so final and so melancholy. I much prefer a see you later. So 25 see you laters have been said and now here I am in Ubud, back to my original travel companions; my backpack and my yoga mat. Plus a couple of friends I picked up along the way. Happy to have spent  the last few days with an incredible group of people in the spiritual heart of Bali. From teaching a karma yoga class at the local school for children with disabilities to salsa dancing and late night talks by the pool, we definitely made the most of our last week together. I am so grateful for our special circle and the lifelong connections I've made. It was a life changing month and I'm humbled to have spent it with so many inspiring individuals. We've officially made it to the starting line! Now the real adventure begins! 

Ubud is a bit of sensory overload coming from a month in the mountains more or less isolated from civilization. Clothing shops line the streets, filled with tourists and motor bikes zipping by. There is a vegan cafe on every corner and laughing buddha statues everywhere you turn. The balanced feeling I had leaving the mountains dissapated quickly and I found myself feeling homesick and totally confused the last few days so I decided a day of pampering would make me feel better. After a stressful 2 hours trying to find FedEx to ship a package home, I settled on the post office, spent $80 to ship home some books and clothes that I won't be needing (which takes 2-3 months by the way) and I ended up poolside for a few hours in the sun. Then I hit up the spa and for $50 got a mani, pedi, facial, full body massage, sea salt body scrub, and a bubble bath with rose petals. Follow that with a delicious, healthy dinner at a beautiful restaurant for $10. God, I love the prices here. Amazing what a trip to the spa and some good food can do for you! 

I feel completely rejuvenated and ready to conquer this next adventure. Just have to conquer the monkey forest tomorrow and then I'm saying see you later to Ubud, and heading onward. I'm not sure where yet but I know it will be on the coast. I've got another 6 days to kill in Bali before I leave for Bangkok and I have every intention of spending them on the beach.

Stay tuned!