Thank You, You're Beautiful

30 days in the Philippines has come and gone. It's been a great month filled with endless white sand beaches, waterfalls, motorbike rides, and underwater adventures. However it only takes a couple of hours in Manila and I'm ready to get out of here. I can spend weeks on the beach but the hectic city is not for me. I'm not sure if it's the swarms of people, the foul smells, or the thick dirt filled air but I know once I arrive in the city I'm counting the hours until I leave. I'm sure there are some beautiful parts of the city so I don't want to hate on it too much as I haven't spent enough time here to judge but I will choose the islands over the city any day. And aside from Manila, I will miss the Philippines. Minus the food, which has been pretty disappointing. I've had a great month and I've learned some valuable life lessons.

The trip has been eye opening and has reminded me how blessed I am to live the life that I do, filled with endless possibilities and opportunities. There are people in this country with next to nothing and yet they still go out of their way to help a lost foreigner, to feed a stranger, to get to know someone who they will never see again. The kindness and hospitality that I have experienced this past month has humbled and inspired me. I am constantly in awe of the generosity and warm smiles extended my way. It's sad that it isn't the norm in America but I hope that can change. After an entire month in the country I have only learned 2 words of the language. They are all the only 2 I've needed and I won't soon forget them. Salamat and maganda ka, thank you and you're beautiful.

Thank you for an exhilarating and enlightening month Pilipinas, you're beautiful!

Laura and I had a great week on Bohol. One of the days we rented a motor bike and went to a completely deserted waterfall where we swam for an hour waiting for the crowds to show up but they never did. Then we went to the Bohol Bee Farm for lunch. The Buzzz was our favorite restaurant on Alona beach, we ate atleast one meal a day there, despite the prices being high- I was too excited for healthy food that I didn't care about my budget. We laid on the famous white sand beaches, got massages, face scrubs, and foot scrubs, ate ice cream every day, and even maintained a morning workout routine on the beach. It was the perfect start to our travels together and we're both dying to get to Thailand. Number one on both of our agendas? Pad Thai of course!

A Blissful Moment

This past week has been a bit of a disaster. We left Coron on Monday and flew to Cebu with high hopes of famous waterfalls and marine adventures but Mother Nature had a different plan. A typhoon rolled through on Tuesday and lasted the better part of the week, putting a big damper on our plans. I basically spent 6 days taking busses to different hostels in different towns and finally ended up in Cebu City where we could atleast walk around inside of a mall and go to the movies. I tried my best to remain positive despite wanting to rip my hair out and for the most part I succeeded. It was a minor set back but thankfully I still have a little over a week left to visit everywhere I've wanted to go. Seeing bridges, roads, and homes destroyed made me realize that my frustrations are insignificant.

Today is December 1st and the sun has been shining all day. I love the new beginning that the first of the month represents. The bad weather is (hopefully) behind us and we can resume our plans. We were up at sunrise this morning to catch a bus, a ferry, another bus, and a little motor boat to make it to itty bitty Apo Island. The island only has electricity from 6-9pm, 5 guest houses, and 1 restaurant. I was so happy when we finally got on the little motor boat to get here. It felt amazing to be on a boat and not a bus, on the ocean instead of the road. 

We grabbed snorkels as soon as we arrived this afternoon and got into the water. We were all itching to be in the ocean after a week of being stuck inside. It felt like a rebirth being able to swim around in the salt water again, exploring coral reefs that line the shore. As if that wasn't enough in itself, the reefs were filled with my favorite marine animal, sea turtles! I can die happy now, having spent an hour swimming side by side with handfuls of these majestic creatures. It was one of the coolest experiences I've had and I can't wait to jump in the water with them again tomorrow. Of course this was our sole purpose for coming to Apo Island so it wasn't any sort of surprise but still when you actually see them you can't help but squeal. They are so tranquil and elegant, not giving a second of attention to the strangers following them around. 

All it took was one blissful moment in the ocean, swimming side by side with a giant sea turtle, and this entire week has been completely worth it. 

**December 2nd: Having no electricity last night and therefore no fan for sleeping was absolute torture. I don't know how people sleep in those conditions every night and I know I'm being a diva but it was so miserable. But the misery was worth it because this morning, after we hiked up to a lighthouse, we spent a solid hour swimming with sea turtles. We were all trying to come up with a way to describe them and were at a loss for words. All we could say is that they are just so freaking COOL! Once we were over swimming we got on another tiny wooden motor boat and started the 2 hour ride to Siquijor. I can already tell I'm going to love this little island. It's much cleaner and seems to have more development and civilization than some other ones we've been to. The sunset we saw this evening was a beautiful swirl of pink and purple and the water was perfectly still and peaceful. Tomorrow we'll rent motorbikes and explore the island. I've only got one full day here before I head to Bohol to meet a friend from home who is coming to travel with me for the next month. It's going to be so nice to see a familiar face and have someone to spend the holidays with. To say that I'm excited would be an understatement, I can not wait to see her!

Chasing Waterfalls

November 23:

I know I keep saying it but every day here gets better and better. I woke up planning to have a relaxing spa day but as I've learned in the past 2 months, you can never get attached to plans. You've got to be spontaneous and say yes to every opportunity that presents itself. So when a few people suggested we rent motor bikes and explore the island, I had to say yes. I hopped on the back of a bike and we rode 45 minutes across dirt roads looking for a waterfall that we'd seen a sign for. We got caught in a rainstorm and had to take cover in a local's garage and then, following directions from passersby, we found the path to the waterfall. Three little boys no older than 5 showed us the way along the path. Once again, a breathtaking view of a huge blue pool and 2 flowing waterfalls came into sight. We were the only foreigners there and were welcomed with smiles, waves, and lots of food. The genuine hospitality here never ceases to amaze me. Filipinos will literally give you the shirt off their back if you seem interested. We met the sweetest lady who was excited to meet an American because "there are muslims in America!" and she herself is Muslim. She offered us food and although my body really did not want to eat white bread and cheez whiz I felt too rude refusing. Bryony complimented her on one of her rings and she took it off her finger right away and offered it as a gift. This is the norm here, comment on a specific possession and it will quickly become yours.

We also met a sweet local guy who spoke great english and became our guide for the day. He told us about a secret waterfall and after a little convincing he agreed to lead us to it. So there we were once again walking through the jungle, searching for our own private waterfall. It was smaller than the first and there was no 18ft cliff to jump off but it was gorgeous and it did have a long vine to swing around on like Tarzan. Our new friend Franz invited us to his house and of course we excitedly accepted the offer. We were all pretty sure we'd be going to a small hut with chickens and stray dogs roaming around the yard when all of the sudden we turned onto a road that led straight to the ocean and a beautiful white villa. It turns out that Franz has a swedish uncle who owns this villa and is renovating it to become a guest house. Set to open December 1st so if you are ever on the island of Busuanga in the Philippines, make your way to the town of Conception and stay at the Fear House Lodging. Franz will serve you delicious sticky rice, lemon garlic prawns, and San Miguel Lights while you relax on the balcony and watch the boats on the horizon. 

Unexpected adventures are always the best and you can't beat the authentic experience of spending the entire day with a local. 

Heaven on Earth

November 22:

I found heaven today. I'm still in awe of the beauty here and sometimes I have a hard time believing it's real. We chartered a boat for another day of island hopping and it was complete magic. Upon pulling up to the entrance of Barracudda Lake it looks similar to most other islands we've been to; giant rock formations and crystal clear ocean. This time we stepped off the boat onto some wooden stairs that appeared to cut right in between two of the rocks. Walk up about 10 steps, turn a corner, and the most breathtaking view comes in to sight. It's a cerulean blue fresh water lake enclosed in rock in the middle of the ocean. What's better is that it's completely empty. Our own private oasis. None of us could believe our eyes and the 100-watt smiles permanently stained our faces. Having spent so many days swimming in the overly salty water, the fresh water of the lake was so crisp and refreshing. I remember floating on my back in the middle of the lake and actually having the thought that I could die right then and there and be perfectly happy. It was that amazing. We climbed up jagged rocks and took turns cannon balling into the water. All of us giddy with amazement. I really never wanted to leave.

But alas, we had 4 more stops so I had to kiss Barracudda Lake goodbye and hop back on the water chariot and onto the next one. Kayungan Lake was very similar to Barracudda but is more well known so it was crowded with tourists in bright orange life vests and not quite as enjoyable (although still incredible). Plus there were no cool rocks to dive off. Next was Twin !agoon, a salt water lagoon accessed by swimming through an opening under the rocks during low tide. The water temperature changes from warm to cold every couple of feet and little black fish swim up and nibble at your toes. After the lagoon we went to Skeleton Wreck, a small shipwreck close to shore. I was completely uninterested in the wreck, I was far too fascinated by the swarms of striped fish swimming in a cloud around me. It was surreal being suspended in the water with hundreds of little fish swimming all around me, and the craziest part is that not one of them ever touched me. 

We finished the day with an hour laying on the beach and watched the sunset from the boat as we approached the shore. Today was absolutely magical and I'm going to sleep a very happy and grateful girl.

Under the Sea

Nov 21: Went scuba diving for the first time! It just may be one of the coolest things I've ever done. What better place to try it than in one of the top diving sites in the world? I admit I was scared at first, it feels awkward to only breathe through your mouth and I was a little panicked that I'd forget how to breathe once we went down but per usual, everything went off smoothly. Our first dive was only about 6meters (18ft? I'm terrible at the metric system. God damn you, America) and was just a reef dive which means lots of coral, sea anemones, and fishies. I held my instructors hand the entire time because I kept floating away but it still counts. After that we got back on the boat, had some lunch, and cruised to the next dive site. I felt like I was in a dream sitting on top of that boat, sailing across crystal blue ocean with tiny islands scattered all around me. Another moment where I pause to soak in reality and can't help but smile to myself as I think about how lucky I am to be here and to be doing what I'm doing. The second dive was even better. We were fortunate enough to experience diving to a shipwreck. And not just any shipwreck but a Japanese World War Two ship. It was covered in sea life and reminiscent of a mini Titanic. We swam inside and through a small room and then explored all around the ship. Such a cool experience! I had so much fun diving that I'm planning to get my open water certification in Thailand next month. You can pretty much dive anywhere there's ocean so I might as well get certified and be able to take advantage of all the great diving in Asia.

Heavy Seas

Nov 19: I've been dreading this ferry ride for days now. 7 hours is a long time to be on a boat. I wondered what the odds were that it would have air conditioning but I knew I was being too optimistic. Rei asked if I thought they'd sell sea sickness medicine on board and what type of snacks we might be able to buy. I assumed they didn't have any vending services on the boat. I'm thinking this is gonna be a real rough ride, likening it in my mind to the slow boat from Hyannis to Nantucket. Forgetting of course that I'm in a third world country and the slow boat on Cape Cod is a yacht compared to the wooden vestibule I'm currently sitting on. Think of it as a short hallway, with a long wooden bench on each side and a pig pile of backpacks on the floor in the center and that's pretty much what I'm looking at for the next 7 hours. I managed to score some prime real estate next to a window so I'm hoping this bad boy gets enough speed to offer some sort of a breeze. It's 8am and already sweltering hot. The one saving grace is that somehow there is free wifi on board and there's a chance that spotify might work. To Coron!

El Nido in a Nutshell

Nov 17: Every day here gets better and better. Today we hired 2 motor tricycles to take us to Nacpan beach about 30 mins away. We had to drive on a windy dirt road with potholes and rickety log bridges to get there and my hand was completely cramped from holding the railing so tight. These tricycles are so sketchy, we bottomed out twice and the one that Paige and Bry were in got stuck in the mud and they had to get out and push it. It was scary and hysterical at the same time. Nacpan itself is absolutely breathtaking. Crystal blue water and fluffy white sand. Again, I can't believe how deserted these beaches are! We played in the waves for a few hours, ate a little lunch at a beach shack and then jumped back in the metal cages on wheels. Our drivers dropped us off at an inconspicuous hut on the side of the road and an adorable adolescent Filipino girl offered to guide us on our hike to the waterfall. We trekked through the jungle for about 25 minutes before coming to the waterfall. There were a few locals there but they quickly cleared out once we arrived. We jumped in and swam around, the water was cold and refreshing compared to the ocean. I could've relaxed there for hours but we wanted to see the sunset so we took off early. I went back to the rasta restaurant for some reggae and a veggie salad for dinner. It isn't very vegetarian friendly around here so my diet has been consisting mainly of rice or a raw veggie salad. Not very exciting but still delicious and I'm not complaining.

Nov 18: For our last day in El Nido we rented a chartered boat with 5 other people from the hostel and did our own island hopping tour. The first stop was Secret Beach and we had to swim through a small opening in a rock to reach it. The tide was so strong that you had to wait to be pulled out and then ride the wave through the opening before it sucked you back. The second island we hit had the best snorkeling we've done so far. Bright blue starfish, sea anemones, clown fish, etc. Rei and B saw a shark while I was laying on the beach and that made the rest of the day a little scarier, especially when the next island required a solid 15 minute swim through dark blue water to get to a raft. The raft was made of rickety old wood that you could feel bending beneath you. We all jumped back into the water one by one to start our swim back and one of the French girls decided she wanted a running start. Her foot broke through the wood but luckily her weight was already forward and she made it into the water. Had she been hurt I would've felt bad but it was absolutely hysterical. After hours of snorkeling, BBQing, and swimming, we made our way to the final island, completely deserted and the perfect spot for watching the sunset. I had so many moments today where I had to stop myself and look around. I'm getting so used to the scenery in Southeast Asia that I have to remind myself to pause and breathe in the beauty of my surroundings. I try to soak it all in because I know there will come a day when it's just a beautiful memory.

Up early tomorrow to head to Coron, an island famous for its wrecks. We're taking a 7 hour ferry to get there and I could not be dreading it more. I hope they sell some sort of horse tranquilizer on board or else I'm not sure how I'm gonna get through it without getting sick. Coron better be worth it! On the agenda: scuba diving, beach days, and bungee jumping (Mom- don't freak out)

 

Philippines Thus Far

It's hard to keep up with the blogging and wifi is never a guarantee around here so I'm starting to keep a daily log of everything I'm doing and will post a few days at a time whenever I can. Taking this blog diary style. Here are the last 5 days!

Nov 12-13: Landed in Manila and got to the hostel late. Woke up and explored the city with Bryony, Paige, and Rei. We gorged ourselves on pancakes for breakfast and got lost amongst the beautiful gates of foreign embassies. Flew out to Puerto Princesa tonight and are heading to the underground river tomorrow and then on to El Nido! We had dinner tonight at the local hotspot. It reminded me of a carnival at home. Right on the water, dozens of little stands set up selling food and souvenirs. Filipino children chasing eachother around, teenagers sharing towers of beer, and adults dancing to the beat of the music. We were the only white people so you know it was authentic. I get nervous in those situations because I never know if were going to get robbed or raped. But as usual, everything was fine. I think Southeast Asians are known for their friendliness so maybe I should let my guard down a little. "Hello ma'am, thank you ma'am, you are very pretty ma'am!" Filipinos are so polite! Plus water here is FREE.

Nov 14: Woke up at 7am and hopped on a bus to check out one of the 7 natural wonders of the world! The underground river is an 8km long river underneath caves of rock and calcium deposits. We had to take a motor boat to the opening of the cave and then hop on a paddleboat to actually go through the river. It was dark with bats flying around and water dripping from the ceiling but it's unlike anything I've ever seen. A total of 45 mins though and I was happy to see daylight again. We got back in the van and were on our way to be dropped at the bus station for El Nido when the van made an unexpected stop. Called Ugong Rock, we thought we were taking a bathroom break and ended up rock climbing through this cave and then ziplining to the bottom. So much fun! Hopped back in the van and held on for dear life as this driver drove roughly 100mph down a road that sharply turned left and right every 100ft. We finally made it to the bus station alive and climbed onto the bus to find it filled with Filipinos. Luckily I got the front seat and avoided car sickness for the next 6 hours. This country is breathtaking. Or atleast this island of Palawan is, and I'm sure the rest of it is just as gorgeous. We showed up having no idea where we were sleeping tonight, so happy to have made it to a hostel with a hot shower and working wifi. Plus our beds have curtains around them which I always love because its like my own little room. I don't know when I'll unpack my backpack again but I'm slowly adjusting to this lifestyle. I'm hoping I can survive without doing laundry until I get back to Bangkok in a month. I've resorted to not wearing underwear and most days the most I get dressed is a bathing suit and a sarong so I should be able to make it happen. Could really use a nail salon though, if my fingernails get any longer they're going to start growing veins.

Nov 15: A much needed day of relaxation today. Slept in a little bit, had free breakfast at the hostel (score!) and then headed to the most beautiful beach. Its a mystery to me why the Philippines are not a huge backpacking destination. Had this been in Thailand or Bali the beach would have been packed. Instead there were only a handful of tourists and a few local families. We swam in the ocean and napped in the sand all day. Had lunch in an adorable gazebo right on the beach. Sipped fresh fruit smoothies, ate veggie salad, and played scrabble before walking down the beach and passing out again. Woke up to the sun going down and a (slightly) cool breeze coming off the water. Ahh, paradise. Jumped on a tricycle taxi and explored the little town a bit. Stumbled upon a local basketball game and sat in the stands to watch the game as all the other spectators watched us instead (white people?!). Dinner cost about 85 cents and for $22 tomorrow were doing a full day island hopping tour. Can't wait!!

Nov 16: Had a full 8 hour day of island hopping. Snorkeling, swimming in secret lagoons amongst mountains of rock, and eating fresh seafood cooked right on the beach, today was complete bliss. You can't beat swimming with electric blue fish and watching the sun go down while swinging in a hammock on a desolate island. It took the better part of an hour to comb the dreads out of my hair and my legs are all scraped up from coral but it was totally worth it. (Even after the cuts and scrapes on my legs and feet, I still think water shoes are for dorks). Follow all of that up with dinner on the beach to the tunes of Bob Marley and I'm going to sleep a very happy girl. Oh ya and I dropped my laundry off! Sunday funday has been a success.