Time to Go

After 3 quick weeks in northern Thailand I'm already back in Bangkok packing my bags and preparing to leave for the last time. I am flying home to America the day after tomorrow after seven months in Southeast Asia. I can't even get my head around the fact that I'm going home. I've been gone for so long it just doesn't feel real. I can't imagine myself not living out of a backpack, staying in each place for less than a week. Part of me is excited, I can't wait to see my friends and my family and I have a lot of exciting things to look forward to this summer. The other part of me is sad. The experiences of the past seven months have been life changing and I'm anticipating some major culture shock when I get back. 

This morning I checked out of the guest house where I had been staying in Chiang Mai. The lovely Thai woman behind the desk gave me a big hug and told me twice that she loved me and was going to miss me. I stayed there for 4 nights. This genuine kindness is typical throughout all of SEA and is what I love most about this part of the world. Yes the scenery is stunning and the food is delicious but the real story of Southeast Asia lies within the people. Never in my 25 years on this earth have I met more generous, warm, and friendly people. I have not once felt unsafe here, something I can't say is true even at home. There is a gentleness amongst the people here that just doesn't exist in the western world. We are too focused on work, money, and status that we have completely distracted ourselves from actually enjoying our lives. We spend our entire lives working so that if and when we make it to 65, then we can enjoy ourselves. But the purpose of life is to live. I know for me, it is not meant to be lived in one place or doing one thing. I have confirmed what I already knew, the American Dream is not my dream. I will forever value new sights, smells, and sounds over a new car or money in the bank. I appreciate the luxuries that home has to offer but I recognize that they are just that: luxuries. They are not necessities. While I am looking forward to a full wardrobe and my own bedroom, I know it won't be long before my feet are itchy and I'm ready to carry my life on my back again.

Although I don't feel ready to go home at all, I have tried unsuccessfully 3 times to refund my ticket and it looks like it isn't meant to be. So in 2 days I'm flying across the globe and settling down on Cape Cod for a few months of summer while I plan my next adventure. I'm not quite willing to give up this lifestyle and I am fortunate enough to have a home on a beautiful island where I can continue to live laid back and care free all the while making and saving enough money so that the second the temperature drops I can be on an airplane. 

I often get overwhelmed thinking about all of the places I want to go. I know that I have plenty of time to go everywhere but my western mind wants instant gratification; I want to go everywhere now! Before I left home I thought that this trip would get the travel bug out of my system and I'd be ready to return home and resume "real life"- get a job, get an apartment, etc. I didn't even plan to be gone very long, I figured 3 months would be my max. But here I am, over half a year later and still trying to come up with excuses for the airline to change my flight. It seems wanderlust is in my blood and it isn't going anywhere. The question is, where am I going?! I guess I've got a few months to figure it out..

Asia has been nothing I expected and everything I needed. I am going to miss this place so much. Reading back through all of my posts I notice a very evident theme, gratitude. Traveling to 7 different third world countries opened my eyes to a different type of living. I have been constantly reminded of how fortunate I am to live a life full of opportunities and I intend to take advantage of them. I am so grateful for these past months, for all of the amazing people I have met, places I have seen, and things I have done. It has been the greatest adventure and I'm excited to see what life has in store for me next.

America, here I come!

Livin La Vida Laos (and Vietnam and Thailand)

Six weeks in Vietnam flew by. After Rose and I parted ways I reluctantly booked a tour to Sapa. I hate doing organized tours as they are never as fun as exploring a place on your own and don't allow for much spontaneity but I found an insanely cheap price and decided to take a chance. Upon arriving in Sapa at 6am after 8 hours on the bus, there were a few local guys ready to pick up passengers for their various tours. Naturally, my name was not on any of the lists they had and after sitting on the curb for an hour after the last person had departed I was starting to wonder what the hell I was going to do. I'd met a German guy on the bus the night before who was smart enough to only book the bus and instead rent a bike and explore the town on his own. So I counted my losses and joined him for 3 days of motor biking through misty muddy mountainside rice paddies. We stayed in the tiny valley village of Lao Cai and met the sweetest locals I've come across. The husband and wife at our guest house were so friendly and helpful and ended up contacting my tour company for me and getting them to fund my stay. I swear I have the best karma. We spent the 2nd night across the street at another guest house and I'm still regretting not taking a picture of the old lady who ran it. She was toothless and adorable and the only sentences she said were "tea Vietnam" when pouring our tea and "Sapa brrr" when accurately describing the weather forecast. 

After experiencing the cold in Sapa I was excited to get to Cat Ba island where it would hopefully be sunny and slightly warmer. I had no such luck, the island was chilly and foggy and more or less deserted. Once again being on my own, I found the place eerily quiet and decided to spend only one night. I made the most of my time on the island by renting a motor bike and finally after 6 months I drove one all by myself!! It was shockingly easy and I'm now contemplating buying a scooter to zip around on Cape Cod this summer. And despite the fog I still had stunning views of Halong Bay and the enormous limestone karsts.

{Ignore the selfie stick and instead focus on the crazy limestones in the water and the fact that I'm on a bike by myself}

Back in Hanoi the following night I knew that my time in Vietnam had come to an end. Saying goodbye to my favorite country wasn't easy and I was nervous that the rest of my trip wouldn't compare. With sadness and excitement I boarded a flight to Laos, deciding that the 30 hour bus journey was too much to handle, and jetted off to my 7th country of the trip. 

{Flight got cancelled 10 minutes prior to departure though and I got one final night in Nam!}

Arriving in Luang Prabang I had no idea what to expect and was very pleasantly surprised. The city was quaint and quiet with a touch of a French influence. April is dry season, hot season, and the end of tourist season so the city was quieter than usual but I enjoyed a few relaxing days after being caught up in the hustle and bustle of Hanoi. I visited the most beautiful waterfall I have ever seen, ate at a $1 vegetarian street food buffet every night and did yoga overlooking the river and mountains. I found myself a little bit bored after 4 days of relaxation though and booked a bus to Vang Vieng. 

4 hours in a mini van winding through mountains was slightly torturous and once I arrived in Vang Vieng I was so nauseous I had to go straight to sleep. I planned to spend 4 days in VV and ended up getting stuck for a full week as often happens on my travels. The landscape in Laos is beautiful and there is no shortage of activity in Vang Vieng. A pub crawl on tubes down a river, swimming lagoons, cycling, rock climbing, hiking there are lots of adventures to be had in that town. There's also lots of cheap street food and bars that play marathons of Friends and Family Guy all.day.long. It's a stoner's paradise so being lazy is quite easy as well. I found a nice balance of active days and lazy nights and was lucky enough to meet a group of friends in my hostel who quickly turned to family.

Two weeks came and went in Laos and before I could blink my eyes I was back in Bangkok, eating pad thai, drinking Chang, and spending hours at the spa. After 2 days in Bangkok, I reunited with a Dutch boy that I met during my travels in Vietnam and we headed north to Chiang Mai for Songkram (Thai new year) celebrations. The city shuts down for 4 days for this water festival and it turns into an all out war zone. You can't walk down the street without locals dumping buckets of water over your head and foreigners strapped with water guns spraying you down. It's really difficult to describe it, I don't know any country that has any sort of similar celebration but it is quite literally a 4 day water gun fight with an entire city. I spent every day roaming the streets armed with my hot pink Hello Kitty super soaker seeking revenge from every person that aimed in my direction. 

We just arrived in Pai and are planning to rent bikes and explore the surrounding area. I only have two weeks left on this amazing Southeast Asian journey and I plan to spend them all in Northern Thailand relaxing by a pool, doing yoga, eating delicious food, trying Muay Thai boxing, and of course spending the last of my budget on unnecessary clothing and accessories. It's going to be very difficult to leave this continent but knowing I have an excited welcome crew of friends and family will make it a bit easier.

Life's a Beach, I'm Just Playing in the Sand

I've been in Vietnam for just over 2 weeks and I am absolutely in love with it. I had no intentions of staying longer than 2-3 weeks and now I am already planning to get my visa extended because one month is just not enough time. I thought my travel bug had subsided but it seems I have been bit again! 

The journey began with a 2 day boat ride down the Mekong River from Cambodia and into Vietnam. I was very underwhelmed by the Mekong and found it to be a bit dirty. I was happy to arrive in Ho Chi Minh and experience the craziness that characterizes Saigon. Arriving during Chinese New Year, I spent the first few nights partying with new friends and celebrating Tet. I ended up staying in the city for 5 nights which was longer than planned but I was having such a good time I decided I didn't need to be in a rush. Visiting the war museum was eye opening and emotionally scarring for me. I found myself fighting back tears the entire time as I stared into the faces of those whose lives have been destroyed by a disgusting and unnecessary war with none other than my home country. I could go on for longer about my thoughts on the war but I'll save that for another day.

My friend Rose who I traveled through Burma with met up with me on the second day in Saigon and we have been traveling up the coast together. Our adventures have been endless and we aren't even half way up the country yet. Our first destination after HCMC was Dalat. We took the overnight bus from Ho Chi Minh expecting to arrive around 8am forgetting that the Vietnamese have no concept of time and instead we arrived at 5am, half asleep and freezing cold. We got the worst seats on the bus and while the 20 other passengers were comfortably sleeping, I felt like a popcorn kernel in the microwave bouncing and rolling around for 5 hours straight. We went to our hostel hoping they would have an open bed we could crawl into for a few hours...no such luck. Instead we found a lobby with 3 others already sleeping on a mattress on the floor and when we asked kindly if the boy could also fetch us a mattress or atleast some blankets and pillows we were met with a blank stare and shown the time repeatedly. Yes sir, we are very aware that it is now 5:30 in the morning, we have not slept and would like you to please provide us with a pillow. Communicating with Asians who don't speak English is like trying to use sign language with a blind person, it just doesn't work. We finally managed to clear off a wooden bench and secure ourselves a blanket and curled up in the fetal position for 2 hours before the entire hostel woke up and the day began.

Within 15 minutes of waking up from my 2 hours of sleep on a wooden plank, I was tying my sneakers and heading out for an action packed day of abseiling down rock cliffs and waterfalls. I was not entirely sure what I signed up for and once I saw the demonstration I had a mini panic attack. "I have no coordination when I'm this tired, I am totally going to be the one that falls and cracks their head open" was one of the thoughts going through my head. Good thing I have travel insurance! Knowing that it's all a mental game, I gave myself a little pep talk and stepped up to the plate. I successfully rappelled down an 18m rock wall into some frigid mountain water. It was so much fun! Once I did that, I was awake and ready for the rest of them. We slid down waterfalls like slides, jumped into white water pools and floated with the current through the mountains and up to a 25m waterfall. This time the fear got to me again as I watched the group in front of me hesitantly descend down with water plunging into their faces. A little Asian girl slipped within her first few steps and instead of trying to recover and stand up she sat there crying and yelling for help as the waterfall slammed into her head. I can not let this happen to me! I had to really hype myself up for this one, I considered skipping it but that would just be lame, I had to do it! My turn finally came and I am happy to report that I made it down without a hitch. I was actually surprised at how much easier I found it. I also had such a blast that I wanted to do it again! Instead I jumped 7m off of the next waterfall and floated down to the last 15m cliff. I had so much fun all day, I may have found myself a new hobby for the future.

A big family dinner with the hostel and quite a few bottles of wine called for a fun night and a not so fun morning and bus ride the next day. The road from Dalat to Mui Ne looks something like this: pothole, 5 feet, pothole, 3 feet, pothole...you get the idea. For FIVE HOURS. It was miserable. Anyways we made it to Mui Ne, a small beach town overcome by Russians with a beautiful coastline and sand dunes to marvel at. It's a main destination for kite surfers which was our reason for going since Rose is into that. I spent my days lounging by the pool or riding a quad along the sand dunes. Another favorite new hobby! Vietnam is becoming my little playground and I'm just having so much fun.

From Mui Ne to Hoi An is about 16 hours on the bus so we thought we would stop at some other coastal towns along the way to break up the journey. We spent a night in Nha Trang, another Russian beach town that is actually much nicer than Mui Ne but was desolate and therefore quite boring. Yesterday we left Nha Trang for Quy Nhon, another rather quiet and boring beach town. I have been pleasantly surprised by the parks in Vietnam. Almost every town we have been to has had a wonderfully landscaped park on the waterfront and has made the chore of going for a run much easier. Our main destination is the tiny village of Bai Xep 10km south of Quy Nhon and we were very eager to finally get there this morning after 2 nights in uneventful places. After a nice morning run we got on what we thought was the correct bus only to realize 45 minutes later that we were going in the wrong direction and were now 40km away instead of 10. I can't help but laugh in these situations. They are frustrating but with the right attitude, they are just another part of the adventure. After 2 hours on the bus we finally made it to Life's a Beach, a quaint little guesthouse right on the water. It is absolutely magical and I fell in love the second I walked through the gates. Worth the 2 days of traveling? Yes. The ocean is the most magnificent shade of blue and there are cliffs and rocks and fishing boats and smiling children and I'm just so happy to be here! For $6 including breakfast tomorrow morning, we are spending the night in hammocks. I am so excited! Right now I am sitting on a bamboo bed in the sand, looking out over the ocean at hundreds of tiny sparkling lights dotting the horizon and listening to the waves crash on the shore with an almost full moon in the sky above me. My mermaid heart is full! Life is just so perfect sometimes I can't do anything but smile.

Finding Center in Cambodia

After leaving Burma, I was feeling a bit lost on my journey. I was tired of traveling and missed the comforts of home. To be honest, I was ready to throw in the towel and buy a one way back to Boston. But I knew that as much as I missed home, my time out here was not over yet. I returned to Bangkok for a week of relaxing before deciding where I would go next. I got a one week pass to a nice gym, worked out and did yoga everyday, had 6 thai massages, and of course did some more shopping. I finally felt more myself and was excited to continue my travels. I had been wanting to do a yoga retreat for awhile so when I received an email that there was one spot left for a 5 day retreat in Cambodia I took that as a nudge from the universe. Cambodia was one of the countries that didn't really call to me as a place I cared to visit and for that reason I knew I would probably end up loving it. Right I was!

The yoga retreat was a nice continuation of the healthy lifestyle I had tried to re-obtain in Bangkok and a great way to meet some like minded travelers on similar journeys. Daily asana and meditation practice plus 3 vegan meals a day and sleeping in an open air bamboo hut was the perfect way to kick off my time in Cambodia. I left the retreat feeling similar to when I left Bali, centered and grounded and ready for the next adventure.

Back in the dusty city of Siem Reap, I made my way to the Temples of Angkor. World renowned, breath taking architecture paired with rich history made for a memorable experience. I watched the sunrise over Angkor Wat, the world's largest religious building and was awe struck by the collision of nature and architecture. The temples are so old that enormous trees have grown in the ruins, intertwining Mother Nature with one of man's most impressive creations. 

I wasn't planning to spend much more time in the country but when numerous people started telling me about the island of Koh Rong I thought I might as well check it out. 15 hours of bus travel later and I was sitting on the speed ferry headed for the island in the Gulf of Thailand. Koh Rong is a mixture of laid back beach atmosphere and a hard core party scene. Upon first stepping off the ferry I can't say that I was extremely impressed. The beach was loaded with bars and backpackers and felt too crowded for my liking. However a few minutes down the beach and I found some peace and quiet. A treacherous 45 minute hike through the jungle brings you to one of the most beautiful beaches I have ever seen. Rightfully named Long Beach, as all of my favorite beaches seem to be, the sand is so white and pure that it squeaks under your feet as you walk. The water is crystal blue and even swimming over my head I was able to see the ocean floor. 

By far the best experience I had on Koh Rong was on my second to last night. I went out with some friends from the yoga retreat for a delicious pizza and wine dinner followed by a dance party on the beach. Dancing in the sand under the moonlight in front of the DJ booth, we all decided to sneak off and go skinny dipping in the ocean. The water was as warm as a bathtub and once we started splashing about we realized dozens and dozens of glowing dots all around us. Almost like an ocean filled with glitter, we were surrounded by phosphorescent plankton! It was one of the coolest experiences of my life.

After 5 nights on Koh Rong, I had enough of the island and made my way to the capital city of Phnom Penh. It is here that the gruesome S-21 prison and killing fields are located. It is amazing to learn about the genocide that this country went through less than 40 years ago. In school we are taught about the world wars and the holocaust and yet the mass detainment and killing that occurred during the Khmer Regime in Cambodia are not mentioned once. Visiting the museum and the killing fields is a heart breaking experience. The traumas that were endured are unthinkable and what is even worse is that it was Cambodians killing other Cambodians. You go on the tour and you sort of float through, listening to the horror stories but not really comprehending them. And then there is a moment where one detail rocks you to the core and suddenly you feel sick that such an event could ever take place. For me that moment was during the tour of the killing fields when we came to "the killing tree" located next to a mass grave. At this tree, babies were held upside down by their feet as their heads were bashed against the tree, bludgeoning their skulls before they were tossed into the pit to the right. This was done in front of their mothers, who stood helpless, naked from the rape they had just endured, watching the final torture before they themselves were mercilessly killed and tossed into the pit along with their children. My entire body had chills when I heard about this. It is sickening and heart wrenching. These are the stories that make you grateful for the life you have been granted. I try to remember these stories when I am having a particularly rough day as it puts things into perspective pretty quickly.

The rest of my days in Phnom Penh I have spent running along the river, taking yoga workshops, getting massages, and dining with new friends. I am enjoying the calm and centered feeling that I so often take for granted at home. Traveling does not allow you to have a routine, it forces you out of your comfort zone and it can sometimes feel like life is a big whirlwind and you're trying to hold on. My time in Cambodia has been much needed and I've realized that there are certain things I must do in order to maintain my balance during a time in my life where there is no structure and spontaneity rules all. It's amazing how much better I feel after a quick run, a yoga class, or some meditation on the beach. It is so important that I remember that this journey is all about me. Taking the time to do things that center me, make me feel happy, and nourish my mind and body is a major priority. 

I have loved my time in Cambodia, a beautiful country with even more beautiful people, and I am sad to leave but I must continue forward. Tomorrow I will take a 2 day boat journey down the Mekong River and into Vietnam. I will arrive in Saigon just in time for the New Year celebrations! Looking forward to good food, rich culture, more beaches, and custom made clothing! Cheers to another country down and another one to look forward to!

The children in Cambodia are the sweetest!

Had a massage and was wondering why the man was running his fingers through my hair afterwards- you can't see the mini braids but I walked out with a full up-do!

Minding myself in Myanmar

My experience in Myanmar has been vastly different than the other countries I've visited. To be honest, I don't really like it that much. I've had a hard time admitting it because I feel for some reason that I must love every place I go and talk excitedly with other travelers about how marvelous it is. But I just don't love it here. It is an extremely corrupt and impoverished country and I've felt very outside of my comfort zone. I am grateful to experience it, to understand how much of the world lives, and I am beyond grateful for all of the blessings in my life that these people could not even dream of. 

It hasn't all been unpleasant. The street food in Yangon was delicious. Sharing a border with India means there is a lot of Indian influence on the cuisine and it is a vegetarian paradise. At the same time there are parts of this country, Bago in particular, that actually feel like you are in India. Complete sensory overload; cars, trucks, busses, motorbikes, cows, and bicycles all crowd the streets honking and yelling and blowing black fumes into the air. It's hard to believe I ever had any reservations about riding a bike on the streets of Boston! After peddling along that crowded highway I think I could handle biking in any major US city. I felt so dirty in the 2 days that we were in Bago. I refused to eat at any of the restaurants and survived instead on bananas and avocados, the only foods I could find with skin and therefore felt safe to eat. 

Arriving in Bagan in the middle of the night with no place to sleep, I had resolved to change my flight to an earlier date. I had all but reached my breaking point when we found a comfortable guest house that opened its doors and let us stay the night free of charge. The next day we walked through the market and had a real meal at a nice (and clean) restaurant. Bagan is much quieter and cleaner than Bago and I felt my trip turning around. We climbed to the top of the highest temple at 5:30am to watch the sunrise over the city, saw hot air balloons floating through the sky, and we watched the sunset from the top of a pagoda while chit chatting with some friendly locals. If the rest of the country is anything like Bagan, I thought, I'll actually really like it here.

A 7 hour bus ride brought us from Bagan to Kalaw, the starting point for the 3 day trek to Inle Lake. There really is nothing in Kalaw and the only reason for going is to trek. We ran into a lot of rain the next day and had to postpone our trek. Although the day was extremely boring, I welcomed it because it wasted a day of our trip. It's awful but everyday I wake up and think about how many days we have left to endure. I have a countdown in my head of when these 3 long weeks will be over. Even though I have been enjoying some of them, for the most part I can't wait to leave. Part of me wishes that I saved this country for last because being here has made me want nothing else but to go home. I want to feel clean again, I want to sleep in a comfortable bed, I want to use a toilet that I can actually sit on and not a hole in the ground. I want to make my own food, take a proper shower, and see all of my friends. I want all of the comforts of America and none of the people who constantly insult where I come from. 

But. I just can't go home yet. I still have too much to see here and although I have my moments, as every backpacker does, I truly do love traveling. Plus it's cold at home and I want no part of that. 

There are 11 days left on the countdown. We are finished with day 1 of the trek, 15km down and another 38 to go. Sleeping on the floor of a local villager's hut with no electricity and no running water. I think to myself, I am so lucky to have been born where I was born. I can't wait to get to Inle Lake, it is supposed to be breathtaking and despite my overall lack of enthusiasm for this country, I am actually really looking forward to it.

Update: We finished the trek today. My toes are covered in painful blisters and I think it will take a few more showers until I actually feel clean again. The boat ride across the lake to the main village was beautiful- a placid lake surrounded by mountains. I've been here for less than 2 hours though and I am already bored. 9 days left, there is no way I can make it. I am putting my stubbornness aside, throwing in the towel and booking a flight back to Bangkok for tomorrow morning. Afterall if I'm not enjoying myself then what am I doing here? 

Hello 2015!

I spent the last day of 2014 laying on the beach and rang in 2015 watching the fireworks and partying on the beach. It's hard to believe the year is over. 2014 brought some major life changes for me. I quit my job and moved out of the apartment in Boston where I lived for 3 years, broke up with my best friend who I dated for 5 years, and I bought a one way ticket to Southeast Asia. I moved home to the Cape and waitressed to fund my dreams of traveling the world. In the meantime I strengthened old friendships and created new ones. I fell in love with my home all over again and learned to appreciate the beauty that constantly surrounds me. I became a certified yoga instructor, I swam with sea turtles, I got scuba certified, I bathed in waterfalls, and I danced for hours on the beach under a canopy of stars. I lost friends and I made friends. There were highs and lows, as is usual, but one thing is for sure it was a year of transformation for me and I don't think 2015 will be any different. I'm not dwelling on the past nor am I anticipating the future. Instead, I am focusing on the present and living in the moment.

After treating ourselves to a bottle of wine and a fancy dinner for Christmas Eve on Koh Tao, Laura and I took off for Koh Phangan. Known for the famous Full Moon Party, the island is filled with 20-somethings in neon shirts and body paint, ready to rage at any hour of the day. We went to the full moon party on Christmas and had an absolute blast. Thailand being such a popular destination for Europeans, I found myself speaking Italian, Spanish, and a mix of other languages all night. I was fascinated by the fire shows, with young Thai boys tossing flame colored ropes into the sky, twirling them around and managing to not get burned. Then there were the fire jump ropes which are exactly what they sound like. A massive jump rope engulfed in flames and the brave souls who risk a 3rd degree burn to get a good picture.

Koh Phangan was fun and there is a lot more to do than party. The farther north you go on the island, the prettier the beaches get and the more yoga and health centric spots start popping up. We stayed on the island for a few days, zipping up and down the coast on our motor bike, before deciding we wanted to explore the Indian Ocean side of Thailand. So now we are on Koh Phi Phi (pronounced Pee Pee) and have been doing little more than sunbathing everyday. This island is stunning and the weather has been perfect so we are taking full advantage and getting our tanning time in. Made famous by the Leo Dicaprio movie, The Beach, Phi Phi is a tiny island with no cars and a mixture of backpackers and vacationers. 

I am so sad that our Thailand adventure is quickly coming to an end and Laura is leaving me in a week. She has been the perfect travel companion, always on the same page as me, and I'm going to miss her so much when she goes! As for me, I have 8 days before they can legally kick me out of the country and I don't quite know where I'm going yet. If the Myanmar website would work and I could secure my eVisa then I would say I'm going to Burma but so far I've had no luck. As always, I have faith that things will work out the way they are supposed to and the universe will nudge me in the right direction. :)

Bangkok, Boats, and Buddhas

I've been having far too much fun in Thailand and its been awhile since I've had a chance to write anything. Laura and I fell in love with Bangkok, such a cool city. There are sky high shopping malls mixed in with temples and giant buddhas, and delicious food stands on every corner. Its quickly become my home away from home as its the perfect travel hub for all of SEA. We spent way too much money, ate way too much pad thai, and maybe drank a little too much but we had a damn good time doing it.

Oh Bangkok, where to begin? The food. The food! What an improvement from the Philippines, the food in Thailand is unreal. Everything is delicious, there are tons of vegetarian options, and you can easily get an entire meal for $1. The shopping is unavoidable. Clothing, jewlery, home decor, electronics, beauty treatments, you name it, we bought it. You can literally buy anything in Thailand. I had to leave an entire backpack behind while we travel the islands and I plan to stuff it full before I mail it home next month. Laura and I both agreed we could have spent the entire month in Bangkok but our bank accounts would have dwindled quickly. 

We booked tickets on an overnight sleeper train headed south where we would hop on a bus and then a ferry to get to our first tropical destination: Koh Tao. Again, my naivety has me thinking that this overnight train is going to be like the Hogwarts Express with our own private room, beds, and food carts periodically going through the aisles. Laura is excitedly telling me that she LOVES traveling by train. Me too! I took the Eurorail all over Italy and it was wonderful. Let me tell you that it was NOT like anything we were expecting. When we first got on the train we exchanged confused glances and proceeded to ask every worker we saw if we were on the correct train. Excuse me sir, there must be some confusion, we purchased tickets for the sleeper car? After being assured many times we finally accepted that we were on the right train and took our seats on the urine scented car. It turns out the two leather seats we were in slid together to make one bed and the metal cage above us folded down into a top bunk. We decided to sleep together on the bottom "bed" and used the top one to store our luggage. I refused to drink anything because there wasn't a chance I was going to use that bathroom again and by the time we reached our destination 10 hours later my mouth was so dry I could barely talk. I wish I could say that chapter ends with us getting off the train but it has only begun. We got to the deserted train station at 3am and waited until 6 for our bus. The bus was a quick 30 minutes to the pier and I slept the whole time. And then was what I can confidently say was one of the worst experiences of my life- the ferry ride. Its high season in Thailand right now and everyone is spending the holidays on the islands so the ferries are at full capacity. The weather last week wasn't ideal and made for some choppy seas in the gulf. Why they didn't warn us or cancel the ride all together is beyond me. Two hours on a catamaran rocking so violently side to side that the only thing you could see out the windows was the wave washing over it. Women shrieking as if they are on a roller coaster. Nauseous passengers vomiting into plastic bags every couple of feet. And me with my eyes closed tightly, hands gripping the seat in front of me, breathing deeply and picturing myself meditating on a calm beach with the horizon in front of me. It was horrific. How I managed to hold it together and not puke is a miracle. There were moments when I was questioning whether or not we would even make it to the island. I think I almost cried when the boat finally pulled into a harbor and the announcer said the name of a different island. I thought we were the first stop!! How long to Koh Tao?!?! Thankfully only 5 minutes away or I would have found myself vacationing on this other island I'd never heard of.

Aside from the terrible transportation experience, life in Thailand has been great. We've been on Koh Tao for 4 days now and just completed our Open Water scuba diving certification! The weather is beautiful and we plan to spend the next few days relaxing on the beach, hiking, doing yoga, and exploring the island. Time to lay low and enjoy the holidays :)

Thank You, You're Beautiful

30 days in the Philippines has come and gone. It's been a great month filled with endless white sand beaches, waterfalls, motorbike rides, and underwater adventures. However it only takes a couple of hours in Manila and I'm ready to get out of here. I can spend weeks on the beach but the hectic city is not for me. I'm not sure if it's the swarms of people, the foul smells, or the thick dirt filled air but I know once I arrive in the city I'm counting the hours until I leave. I'm sure there are some beautiful parts of the city so I don't want to hate on it too much as I haven't spent enough time here to judge but I will choose the islands over the city any day. And aside from Manila, I will miss the Philippines. Minus the food, which has been pretty disappointing. I've had a great month and I've learned some valuable life lessons.

The trip has been eye opening and has reminded me how blessed I am to live the life that I do, filled with endless possibilities and opportunities. There are people in this country with next to nothing and yet they still go out of their way to help a lost foreigner, to feed a stranger, to get to know someone who they will never see again. The kindness and hospitality that I have experienced this past month has humbled and inspired me. I am constantly in awe of the generosity and warm smiles extended my way. It's sad that it isn't the norm in America but I hope that can change. After an entire month in the country I have only learned 2 words of the language. They are all the only 2 I've needed and I won't soon forget them. Salamat and maganda ka, thank you and you're beautiful.

Thank you for an exhilarating and enlightening month Pilipinas, you're beautiful!

Laura and I had a great week on Bohol. One of the days we rented a motor bike and went to a completely deserted waterfall where we swam for an hour waiting for the crowds to show up but they never did. Then we went to the Bohol Bee Farm for lunch. The Buzzz was our favorite restaurant on Alona beach, we ate atleast one meal a day there, despite the prices being high- I was too excited for healthy food that I didn't care about my budget. We laid on the famous white sand beaches, got massages, face scrubs, and foot scrubs, ate ice cream every day, and even maintained a morning workout routine on the beach. It was the perfect start to our travels together and we're both dying to get to Thailand. Number one on both of our agendas? Pad Thai of course!

A Blissful Moment

This past week has been a bit of a disaster. We left Coron on Monday and flew to Cebu with high hopes of famous waterfalls and marine adventures but Mother Nature had a different plan. A typhoon rolled through on Tuesday and lasted the better part of the week, putting a big damper on our plans. I basically spent 6 days taking busses to different hostels in different towns and finally ended up in Cebu City where we could atleast walk around inside of a mall and go to the movies. I tried my best to remain positive despite wanting to rip my hair out and for the most part I succeeded. It was a minor set back but thankfully I still have a little over a week left to visit everywhere I've wanted to go. Seeing bridges, roads, and homes destroyed made me realize that my frustrations are insignificant.

Today is December 1st and the sun has been shining all day. I love the new beginning that the first of the month represents. The bad weather is (hopefully) behind us and we can resume our plans. We were up at sunrise this morning to catch a bus, a ferry, another bus, and a little motor boat to make it to itty bitty Apo Island. The island only has electricity from 6-9pm, 5 guest houses, and 1 restaurant. I was so happy when we finally got on the little motor boat to get here. It felt amazing to be on a boat and not a bus, on the ocean instead of the road. 

We grabbed snorkels as soon as we arrived this afternoon and got into the water. We were all itching to be in the ocean after a week of being stuck inside. It felt like a rebirth being able to swim around in the salt water again, exploring coral reefs that line the shore. As if that wasn't enough in itself, the reefs were filled with my favorite marine animal, sea turtles! I can die happy now, having spent an hour swimming side by side with handfuls of these majestic creatures. It was one of the coolest experiences I've had and I can't wait to jump in the water with them again tomorrow. Of course this was our sole purpose for coming to Apo Island so it wasn't any sort of surprise but still when you actually see them you can't help but squeal. They are so tranquil and elegant, not giving a second of attention to the strangers following them around. 

All it took was one blissful moment in the ocean, swimming side by side with a giant sea turtle, and this entire week has been completely worth it. 

**December 2nd: Having no electricity last night and therefore no fan for sleeping was absolute torture. I don't know how people sleep in those conditions every night and I know I'm being a diva but it was so miserable. But the misery was worth it because this morning, after we hiked up to a lighthouse, we spent a solid hour swimming with sea turtles. We were all trying to come up with a way to describe them and were at a loss for words. All we could say is that they are just so freaking COOL! Once we were over swimming we got on another tiny wooden motor boat and started the 2 hour ride to Siquijor. I can already tell I'm going to love this little island. It's much cleaner and seems to have more development and civilization than some other ones we've been to. The sunset we saw this evening was a beautiful swirl of pink and purple and the water was perfectly still and peaceful. Tomorrow we'll rent motorbikes and explore the island. I've only got one full day here before I head to Bohol to meet a friend from home who is coming to travel with me for the next month. It's going to be so nice to see a familiar face and have someone to spend the holidays with. To say that I'm excited would be an understatement, I can not wait to see her!

Chasing Waterfalls

November 23:

I know I keep saying it but every day here gets better and better. I woke up planning to have a relaxing spa day but as I've learned in the past 2 months, you can never get attached to plans. You've got to be spontaneous and say yes to every opportunity that presents itself. So when a few people suggested we rent motor bikes and explore the island, I had to say yes. I hopped on the back of a bike and we rode 45 minutes across dirt roads looking for a waterfall that we'd seen a sign for. We got caught in a rainstorm and had to take cover in a local's garage and then, following directions from passersby, we found the path to the waterfall. Three little boys no older than 5 showed us the way along the path. Once again, a breathtaking view of a huge blue pool and 2 flowing waterfalls came into sight. We were the only foreigners there and were welcomed with smiles, waves, and lots of food. The genuine hospitality here never ceases to amaze me. Filipinos will literally give you the shirt off their back if you seem interested. We met the sweetest lady who was excited to meet an American because "there are muslims in America!" and she herself is Muslim. She offered us food and although my body really did not want to eat white bread and cheez whiz I felt too rude refusing. Bryony complimented her on one of her rings and she took it off her finger right away and offered it as a gift. This is the norm here, comment on a specific possession and it will quickly become yours.

We also met a sweet local guy who spoke great english and became our guide for the day. He told us about a secret waterfall and after a little convincing he agreed to lead us to it. So there we were once again walking through the jungle, searching for our own private waterfall. It was smaller than the first and there was no 18ft cliff to jump off but it was gorgeous and it did have a long vine to swing around on like Tarzan. Our new friend Franz invited us to his house and of course we excitedly accepted the offer. We were all pretty sure we'd be going to a small hut with chickens and stray dogs roaming around the yard when all of the sudden we turned onto a road that led straight to the ocean and a beautiful white villa. It turns out that Franz has a swedish uncle who owns this villa and is renovating it to become a guest house. Set to open December 1st so if you are ever on the island of Busuanga in the Philippines, make your way to the town of Conception and stay at the Fear House Lodging. Franz will serve you delicious sticky rice, lemon garlic prawns, and San Miguel Lights while you relax on the balcony and watch the boats on the horizon. 

Unexpected adventures are always the best and you can't beat the authentic experience of spending the entire day with a local. 

Under the Sea

Nov 21: Went scuba diving for the first time! It just may be one of the coolest things I've ever done. What better place to try it than in one of the top diving sites in the world? I admit I was scared at first, it feels awkward to only breathe through your mouth and I was a little panicked that I'd forget how to breathe once we went down but per usual, everything went off smoothly. Our first dive was only about 6meters (18ft? I'm terrible at the metric system. God damn you, America) and was just a reef dive which means lots of coral, sea anemones, and fishies. I held my instructors hand the entire time because I kept floating away but it still counts. After that we got back on the boat, had some lunch, and cruised to the next dive site. I felt like I was in a dream sitting on top of that boat, sailing across crystal blue ocean with tiny islands scattered all around me. Another moment where I pause to soak in reality and can't help but smile to myself as I think about how lucky I am to be here and to be doing what I'm doing. The second dive was even better. We were fortunate enough to experience diving to a shipwreck. And not just any shipwreck but a Japanese World War Two ship. It was covered in sea life and reminiscent of a mini Titanic. We swam inside and through a small room and then explored all around the ship. Such a cool experience! I had so much fun diving that I'm planning to get my open water certification in Thailand next month. You can pretty much dive anywhere there's ocean so I might as well get certified and be able to take advantage of all the great diving in Asia.

Heavy Seas

Nov 19: I've been dreading this ferry ride for days now. 7 hours is a long time to be on a boat. I wondered what the odds were that it would have air conditioning but I knew I was being too optimistic. Rei asked if I thought they'd sell sea sickness medicine on board and what type of snacks we might be able to buy. I assumed they didn't have any vending services on the boat. I'm thinking this is gonna be a real rough ride, likening it in my mind to the slow boat from Hyannis to Nantucket. Forgetting of course that I'm in a third world country and the slow boat on Cape Cod is a yacht compared to the wooden vestibule I'm currently sitting on. Think of it as a short hallway, with a long wooden bench on each side and a pig pile of backpacks on the floor in the center and that's pretty much what I'm looking at for the next 7 hours. I managed to score some prime real estate next to a window so I'm hoping this bad boy gets enough speed to offer some sort of a breeze. It's 8am and already sweltering hot. The one saving grace is that somehow there is free wifi on board and there's a chance that spotify might work. To Coron!

El Nido in a Nutshell

Nov 17: Every day here gets better and better. Today we hired 2 motor tricycles to take us to Nacpan beach about 30 mins away. We had to drive on a windy dirt road with potholes and rickety log bridges to get there and my hand was completely cramped from holding the railing so tight. These tricycles are so sketchy, we bottomed out twice and the one that Paige and Bry were in got stuck in the mud and they had to get out and push it. It was scary and hysterical at the same time. Nacpan itself is absolutely breathtaking. Crystal blue water and fluffy white sand. Again, I can't believe how deserted these beaches are! We played in the waves for a few hours, ate a little lunch at a beach shack and then jumped back in the metal cages on wheels. Our drivers dropped us off at an inconspicuous hut on the side of the road and an adorable adolescent Filipino girl offered to guide us on our hike to the waterfall. We trekked through the jungle for about 25 minutes before coming to the waterfall. There were a few locals there but they quickly cleared out once we arrived. We jumped in and swam around, the water was cold and refreshing compared to the ocean. I could've relaxed there for hours but we wanted to see the sunset so we took off early. I went back to the rasta restaurant for some reggae and a veggie salad for dinner. It isn't very vegetarian friendly around here so my diet has been consisting mainly of rice or a raw veggie salad. Not very exciting but still delicious and I'm not complaining.

Nov 18: For our last day in El Nido we rented a chartered boat with 5 other people from the hostel and did our own island hopping tour. The first stop was Secret Beach and we had to swim through a small opening in a rock to reach it. The tide was so strong that you had to wait to be pulled out and then ride the wave through the opening before it sucked you back. The second island we hit had the best snorkeling we've done so far. Bright blue starfish, sea anemones, clown fish, etc. Rei and B saw a shark while I was laying on the beach and that made the rest of the day a little scarier, especially when the next island required a solid 15 minute swim through dark blue water to get to a raft. The raft was made of rickety old wood that you could feel bending beneath you. We all jumped back into the water one by one to start our swim back and one of the French girls decided she wanted a running start. Her foot broke through the wood but luckily her weight was already forward and she made it into the water. Had she been hurt I would've felt bad but it was absolutely hysterical. After hours of snorkeling, BBQing, and swimming, we made our way to the final island, completely deserted and the perfect spot for watching the sunset. I had so many moments today where I had to stop myself and look around. I'm getting so used to the scenery in Southeast Asia that I have to remind myself to pause and breathe in the beauty of my surroundings. I try to soak it all in because I know there will come a day when it's just a beautiful memory.

Up early tomorrow to head to Coron, an island famous for its wrecks. We're taking a 7 hour ferry to get there and I could not be dreading it more. I hope they sell some sort of horse tranquilizer on board or else I'm not sure how I'm gonna get through it without getting sick. Coron better be worth it! On the agenda: scuba diving, beach days, and bungee jumping (Mom- don't freak out)

 

Philippines Thus Far

It's hard to keep up with the blogging and wifi is never a guarantee around here so I'm starting to keep a daily log of everything I'm doing and will post a few days at a time whenever I can. Taking this blog diary style. Here are the last 5 days!

Nov 12-13: Landed in Manila and got to the hostel late. Woke up and explored the city with Bryony, Paige, and Rei. We gorged ourselves on pancakes for breakfast and got lost amongst the beautiful gates of foreign embassies. Flew out to Puerto Princesa tonight and are heading to the underground river tomorrow and then on to El Nido! We had dinner tonight at the local hotspot. It reminded me of a carnival at home. Right on the water, dozens of little stands set up selling food and souvenirs. Filipino children chasing eachother around, teenagers sharing towers of beer, and adults dancing to the beat of the music. We were the only white people so you know it was authentic. I get nervous in those situations because I never know if were going to get robbed or raped. But as usual, everything was fine. I think Southeast Asians are known for their friendliness so maybe I should let my guard down a little. "Hello ma'am, thank you ma'am, you are very pretty ma'am!" Filipinos are so polite! Plus water here is FREE.

Nov 14: Woke up at 7am and hopped on a bus to check out one of the 7 natural wonders of the world! The underground river is an 8km long river underneath caves of rock and calcium deposits. We had to take a motor boat to the opening of the cave and then hop on a paddleboat to actually go through the river. It was dark with bats flying around and water dripping from the ceiling but it's unlike anything I've ever seen. A total of 45 mins though and I was happy to see daylight again. We got back in the van and were on our way to be dropped at the bus station for El Nido when the van made an unexpected stop. Called Ugong Rock, we thought we were taking a bathroom break and ended up rock climbing through this cave and then ziplining to the bottom. So much fun! Hopped back in the van and held on for dear life as this driver drove roughly 100mph down a road that sharply turned left and right every 100ft. We finally made it to the bus station alive and climbed onto the bus to find it filled with Filipinos. Luckily I got the front seat and avoided car sickness for the next 6 hours. This country is breathtaking. Or atleast this island of Palawan is, and I'm sure the rest of it is just as gorgeous. We showed up having no idea where we were sleeping tonight, so happy to have made it to a hostel with a hot shower and working wifi. Plus our beds have curtains around them which I always love because its like my own little room. I don't know when I'll unpack my backpack again but I'm slowly adjusting to this lifestyle. I'm hoping I can survive without doing laundry until I get back to Bangkok in a month. I've resorted to not wearing underwear and most days the most I get dressed is a bathing suit and a sarong so I should be able to make it happen. Could really use a nail salon though, if my fingernails get any longer they're going to start growing veins.

Nov 15: A much needed day of relaxation today. Slept in a little bit, had free breakfast at the hostel (score!) and then headed to the most beautiful beach. Its a mystery to me why the Philippines are not a huge backpacking destination. Had this been in Thailand or Bali the beach would have been packed. Instead there were only a handful of tourists and a few local families. We swam in the ocean and napped in the sand all day. Had lunch in an adorable gazebo right on the beach. Sipped fresh fruit smoothies, ate veggie salad, and played scrabble before walking down the beach and passing out again. Woke up to the sun going down and a (slightly) cool breeze coming off the water. Ahh, paradise. Jumped on a tricycle taxi and explored the little town a bit. Stumbled upon a local basketball game and sat in the stands to watch the game as all the other spectators watched us instead (white people?!). Dinner cost about 85 cents and for $22 tomorrow were doing a full day island hopping tour. Can't wait!!

Nov 16: Had a full 8 hour day of island hopping. Snorkeling, swimming in secret lagoons amongst mountains of rock, and eating fresh seafood cooked right on the beach, today was complete bliss. You can't beat swimming with electric blue fish and watching the sun go down while swinging in a hammock on a desolate island. It took the better part of an hour to comb the dreads out of my hair and my legs are all scraped up from coral but it was totally worth it. (Even after the cuts and scrapes on my legs and feet, I still think water shoes are for dorks). Follow all of that up with dinner on the beach to the tunes of Bob Marley and I'm going to sleep a very happy girl. Oh ya and I dropped my laundry off! Sunday funday has been a success.