Bangkok, Boats, and Buddhas

I've been having far too much fun in Thailand and its been awhile since I've had a chance to write anything. Laura and I fell in love with Bangkok, such a cool city. There are sky high shopping malls mixed in with temples and giant buddhas, and delicious food stands on every corner. Its quickly become my home away from home as its the perfect travel hub for all of SEA. We spent way too much money, ate way too much pad thai, and maybe drank a little too much but we had a damn good time doing it.

Oh Bangkok, where to begin? The food. The food! What an improvement from the Philippines, the food in Thailand is unreal. Everything is delicious, there are tons of vegetarian options, and you can easily get an entire meal for $1. The shopping is unavoidable. Clothing, jewlery, home decor, electronics, beauty treatments, you name it, we bought it. You can literally buy anything in Thailand. I had to leave an entire backpack behind while we travel the islands and I plan to stuff it full before I mail it home next month. Laura and I both agreed we could have spent the entire month in Bangkok but our bank accounts would have dwindled quickly. 

We booked tickets on an overnight sleeper train headed south where we would hop on a bus and then a ferry to get to our first tropical destination: Koh Tao. Again, my naivety has me thinking that this overnight train is going to be like the Hogwarts Express with our own private room, beds, and food carts periodically going through the aisles. Laura is excitedly telling me that she LOVES traveling by train. Me too! I took the Eurorail all over Italy and it was wonderful. Let me tell you that it was NOT like anything we were expecting. When we first got on the train we exchanged confused glances and proceeded to ask every worker we saw if we were on the correct train. Excuse me sir, there must be some confusion, we purchased tickets for the sleeper car? After being assured many times we finally accepted that we were on the right train and took our seats on the urine scented car. It turns out the two leather seats we were in slid together to make one bed and the metal cage above us folded down into a top bunk. We decided to sleep together on the bottom "bed" and used the top one to store our luggage. I refused to drink anything because there wasn't a chance I was going to use that bathroom again and by the time we reached our destination 10 hours later my mouth was so dry I could barely talk. I wish I could say that chapter ends with us getting off the train but it has only begun. We got to the deserted train station at 3am and waited until 6 for our bus. The bus was a quick 30 minutes to the pier and I slept the whole time. And then was what I can confidently say was one of the worst experiences of my life- the ferry ride. Its high season in Thailand right now and everyone is spending the holidays on the islands so the ferries are at full capacity. The weather last week wasn't ideal and made for some choppy seas in the gulf. Why they didn't warn us or cancel the ride all together is beyond me. Two hours on a catamaran rocking so violently side to side that the only thing you could see out the windows was the wave washing over it. Women shrieking as if they are on a roller coaster. Nauseous passengers vomiting into plastic bags every couple of feet. And me with my eyes closed tightly, hands gripping the seat in front of me, breathing deeply and picturing myself meditating on a calm beach with the horizon in front of me. It was horrific. How I managed to hold it together and not puke is a miracle. There were moments when I was questioning whether or not we would even make it to the island. I think I almost cried when the boat finally pulled into a harbor and the announcer said the name of a different island. I thought we were the first stop!! How long to Koh Tao?!?! Thankfully only 5 minutes away or I would have found myself vacationing on this other island I'd never heard of.

Aside from the terrible transportation experience, life in Thailand has been great. We've been on Koh Tao for 4 days now and just completed our Open Water scuba diving certification! The weather is beautiful and we plan to spend the next few days relaxing on the beach, hiking, doing yoga, and exploring the island. Time to lay low and enjoy the holidays :)

Thank You, You're Beautiful

30 days in the Philippines has come and gone. It's been a great month filled with endless white sand beaches, waterfalls, motorbike rides, and underwater adventures. However it only takes a couple of hours in Manila and I'm ready to get out of here. I can spend weeks on the beach but the hectic city is not for me. I'm not sure if it's the swarms of people, the foul smells, or the thick dirt filled air but I know once I arrive in the city I'm counting the hours until I leave. I'm sure there are some beautiful parts of the city so I don't want to hate on it too much as I haven't spent enough time here to judge but I will choose the islands over the city any day. And aside from Manila, I will miss the Philippines. Minus the food, which has been pretty disappointing. I've had a great month and I've learned some valuable life lessons.

The trip has been eye opening and has reminded me how blessed I am to live the life that I do, filled with endless possibilities and opportunities. There are people in this country with next to nothing and yet they still go out of their way to help a lost foreigner, to feed a stranger, to get to know someone who they will never see again. The kindness and hospitality that I have experienced this past month has humbled and inspired me. I am constantly in awe of the generosity and warm smiles extended my way. It's sad that it isn't the norm in America but I hope that can change. After an entire month in the country I have only learned 2 words of the language. They are all the only 2 I've needed and I won't soon forget them. Salamat and maganda ka, thank you and you're beautiful.

Thank you for an exhilarating and enlightening month Pilipinas, you're beautiful!

Laura and I had a great week on Bohol. One of the days we rented a motor bike and went to a completely deserted waterfall where we swam for an hour waiting for the crowds to show up but they never did. Then we went to the Bohol Bee Farm for lunch. The Buzzz was our favorite restaurant on Alona beach, we ate atleast one meal a day there, despite the prices being high- I was too excited for healthy food that I didn't care about my budget. We laid on the famous white sand beaches, got massages, face scrubs, and foot scrubs, ate ice cream every day, and even maintained a morning workout routine on the beach. It was the perfect start to our travels together and we're both dying to get to Thailand. Number one on both of our agendas? Pad Thai of course!

A Blissful Moment

This past week has been a bit of a disaster. We left Coron on Monday and flew to Cebu with high hopes of famous waterfalls and marine adventures but Mother Nature had a different plan. A typhoon rolled through on Tuesday and lasted the better part of the week, putting a big damper on our plans. I basically spent 6 days taking busses to different hostels in different towns and finally ended up in Cebu City where we could atleast walk around inside of a mall and go to the movies. I tried my best to remain positive despite wanting to rip my hair out and for the most part I succeeded. It was a minor set back but thankfully I still have a little over a week left to visit everywhere I've wanted to go. Seeing bridges, roads, and homes destroyed made me realize that my frustrations are insignificant.

Today is December 1st and the sun has been shining all day. I love the new beginning that the first of the month represents. The bad weather is (hopefully) behind us and we can resume our plans. We were up at sunrise this morning to catch a bus, a ferry, another bus, and a little motor boat to make it to itty bitty Apo Island. The island only has electricity from 6-9pm, 5 guest houses, and 1 restaurant. I was so happy when we finally got on the little motor boat to get here. It felt amazing to be on a boat and not a bus, on the ocean instead of the road. 

We grabbed snorkels as soon as we arrived this afternoon and got into the water. We were all itching to be in the ocean after a week of being stuck inside. It felt like a rebirth being able to swim around in the salt water again, exploring coral reefs that line the shore. As if that wasn't enough in itself, the reefs were filled with my favorite marine animal, sea turtles! I can die happy now, having spent an hour swimming side by side with handfuls of these majestic creatures. It was one of the coolest experiences I've had and I can't wait to jump in the water with them again tomorrow. Of course this was our sole purpose for coming to Apo Island so it wasn't any sort of surprise but still when you actually see them you can't help but squeal. They are so tranquil and elegant, not giving a second of attention to the strangers following them around. 

All it took was one blissful moment in the ocean, swimming side by side with a giant sea turtle, and this entire week has been completely worth it. 

**December 2nd: Having no electricity last night and therefore no fan for sleeping was absolute torture. I don't know how people sleep in those conditions every night and I know I'm being a diva but it was so miserable. But the misery was worth it because this morning, after we hiked up to a lighthouse, we spent a solid hour swimming with sea turtles. We were all trying to come up with a way to describe them and were at a loss for words. All we could say is that they are just so freaking COOL! Once we were over swimming we got on another tiny wooden motor boat and started the 2 hour ride to Siquijor. I can already tell I'm going to love this little island. It's much cleaner and seems to have more development and civilization than some other ones we've been to. The sunset we saw this evening was a beautiful swirl of pink and purple and the water was perfectly still and peaceful. Tomorrow we'll rent motorbikes and explore the island. I've only got one full day here before I head to Bohol to meet a friend from home who is coming to travel with me for the next month. It's going to be so nice to see a familiar face and have someone to spend the holidays with. To say that I'm excited would be an understatement, I can not wait to see her!

Thanksgiving Reflections

Being away during the holidays is always hard. I remember when I was studying abroad in Rome during Thanksgiving and it was such a depressing day. It was raining and dreary and for the first time in those 3 months I really felt lonely. How ironic is it that my second Thanksgiving away from home, this time in the beautiful oasis that is the Philippines, it's also raining? Typhooning actually. So instead of sunbathing and visiting stunning waterfalls and not caring at all about what's going on at home; here I am sitting in a cute little beach cafe, listening to the rain and longing to be at home surrounded by all of my friends and family. But immediately after writing that, I realize how lucky I am to feel this way. How blessed am I that I have such amazing people in my life? In fact I have too many blessings to even count. Traveling has opened my eyes to how truly lucky I am. Living in America, or any other first world country, makes it easy to turn a blind eye on the hardships faced by half the world. We get so caught up in our privileged lives that we never realize how privileged we actually are. Having a roof that doesn't leak, a home with more than one room, hot water to bathe, clean water to drink, healthy food to eat, clean clothing, a bed to sleep on, a car to drive, and an income to maintain these things are all luxuries that we take for granted.

 I am grateful for this eye opening journey, for this opportunity to see the world, to follow my dreams, and to truly live. I wake each day with a grateful heart and I'm learning to see the beauty in every situation. 

There is beauty in every situation. 

I'm not sure if I will ever understand how or why I was dealt such a good hand in life when others who seem more deserving were not, but I will continually be thankful. Not just today, but every single day. 

Wishing a Happy Thanksgiving to all. May your hearts and bellies be extra full today. 

Xoxo Molly

Chasing Waterfalls

November 23:

I know I keep saying it but every day here gets better and better. I woke up planning to have a relaxing spa day but as I've learned in the past 2 months, you can never get attached to plans. You've got to be spontaneous and say yes to every opportunity that presents itself. So when a few people suggested we rent motor bikes and explore the island, I had to say yes. I hopped on the back of a bike and we rode 45 minutes across dirt roads looking for a waterfall that we'd seen a sign for. We got caught in a rainstorm and had to take cover in a local's garage and then, following directions from passersby, we found the path to the waterfall. Three little boys no older than 5 showed us the way along the path. Once again, a breathtaking view of a huge blue pool and 2 flowing waterfalls came into sight. We were the only foreigners there and were welcomed with smiles, waves, and lots of food. The genuine hospitality here never ceases to amaze me. Filipinos will literally give you the shirt off their back if you seem interested. We met the sweetest lady who was excited to meet an American because "there are muslims in America!" and she herself is Muslim. She offered us food and although my body really did not want to eat white bread and cheez whiz I felt too rude refusing. Bryony complimented her on one of her rings and she took it off her finger right away and offered it as a gift. This is the norm here, comment on a specific possession and it will quickly become yours.

We also met a sweet local guy who spoke great english and became our guide for the day. He told us about a secret waterfall and after a little convincing he agreed to lead us to it. So there we were once again walking through the jungle, searching for our own private waterfall. It was smaller than the first and there was no 18ft cliff to jump off but it was gorgeous and it did have a long vine to swing around on like Tarzan. Our new friend Franz invited us to his house and of course we excitedly accepted the offer. We were all pretty sure we'd be going to a small hut with chickens and stray dogs roaming around the yard when all of the sudden we turned onto a road that led straight to the ocean and a beautiful white villa. It turns out that Franz has a swedish uncle who owns this villa and is renovating it to become a guest house. Set to open December 1st so if you are ever on the island of Busuanga in the Philippines, make your way to the town of Conception and stay at the Fear House Lodging. Franz will serve you delicious sticky rice, lemon garlic prawns, and San Miguel Lights while you relax on the balcony and watch the boats on the horizon. 

Unexpected adventures are always the best and you can't beat the authentic experience of spending the entire day with a local. 

Heaven on Earth

November 22:

I found heaven today. I'm still in awe of the beauty here and sometimes I have a hard time believing it's real. We chartered a boat for another day of island hopping and it was complete magic. Upon pulling up to the entrance of Barracudda Lake it looks similar to most other islands we've been to; giant rock formations and crystal clear ocean. This time we stepped off the boat onto some wooden stairs that appeared to cut right in between two of the rocks. Walk up about 10 steps, turn a corner, and the most breathtaking view comes in to sight. It's a cerulean blue fresh water lake enclosed in rock in the middle of the ocean. What's better is that it's completely empty. Our own private oasis. None of us could believe our eyes and the 100-watt smiles permanently stained our faces. Having spent so many days swimming in the overly salty water, the fresh water of the lake was so crisp and refreshing. I remember floating on my back in the middle of the lake and actually having the thought that I could die right then and there and be perfectly happy. It was that amazing. We climbed up jagged rocks and took turns cannon balling into the water. All of us giddy with amazement. I really never wanted to leave.

But alas, we had 4 more stops so I had to kiss Barracudda Lake goodbye and hop back on the water chariot and onto the next one. Kayungan Lake was very similar to Barracudda but is more well known so it was crowded with tourists in bright orange life vests and not quite as enjoyable (although still incredible). Plus there were no cool rocks to dive off. Next was Twin !agoon, a salt water lagoon accessed by swimming through an opening under the rocks during low tide. The water temperature changes from warm to cold every couple of feet and little black fish swim up and nibble at your toes. After the lagoon we went to Skeleton Wreck, a small shipwreck close to shore. I was completely uninterested in the wreck, I was far too fascinated by the swarms of striped fish swimming in a cloud around me. It was surreal being suspended in the water with hundreds of little fish swimming all around me, and the craziest part is that not one of them ever touched me. 

We finished the day with an hour laying on the beach and watched the sunset from the boat as we approached the shore. Today was absolutely magical and I'm going to sleep a very happy and grateful girl.

Under the Sea

Nov 21: Went scuba diving for the first time! It just may be one of the coolest things I've ever done. What better place to try it than in one of the top diving sites in the world? I admit I was scared at first, it feels awkward to only breathe through your mouth and I was a little panicked that I'd forget how to breathe once we went down but per usual, everything went off smoothly. Our first dive was only about 6meters (18ft? I'm terrible at the metric system. God damn you, America) and was just a reef dive which means lots of coral, sea anemones, and fishies. I held my instructors hand the entire time because I kept floating away but it still counts. After that we got back on the boat, had some lunch, and cruised to the next dive site. I felt like I was in a dream sitting on top of that boat, sailing across crystal blue ocean with tiny islands scattered all around me. Another moment where I pause to soak in reality and can't help but smile to myself as I think about how lucky I am to be here and to be doing what I'm doing. The second dive was even better. We were fortunate enough to experience diving to a shipwreck. And not just any shipwreck but a Japanese World War Two ship. It was covered in sea life and reminiscent of a mini Titanic. We swam inside and through a small room and then explored all around the ship. Such a cool experience! I had so much fun diving that I'm planning to get my open water certification in Thailand next month. You can pretty much dive anywhere there's ocean so I might as well get certified and be able to take advantage of all the great diving in Asia.

Heavy Seas

Nov 19: I've been dreading this ferry ride for days now. 7 hours is a long time to be on a boat. I wondered what the odds were that it would have air conditioning but I knew I was being too optimistic. Rei asked if I thought they'd sell sea sickness medicine on board and what type of snacks we might be able to buy. I assumed they didn't have any vending services on the boat. I'm thinking this is gonna be a real rough ride, likening it in my mind to the slow boat from Hyannis to Nantucket. Forgetting of course that I'm in a third world country and the slow boat on Cape Cod is a yacht compared to the wooden vestibule I'm currently sitting on. Think of it as a short hallway, with a long wooden bench on each side and a pig pile of backpacks on the floor in the center and that's pretty much what I'm looking at for the next 7 hours. I managed to score some prime real estate next to a window so I'm hoping this bad boy gets enough speed to offer some sort of a breeze. It's 8am and already sweltering hot. The one saving grace is that somehow there is free wifi on board and there's a chance that spotify might work. To Coron!

El Nido in a Nutshell

Nov 17: Every day here gets better and better. Today we hired 2 motor tricycles to take us to Nacpan beach about 30 mins away. We had to drive on a windy dirt road with potholes and rickety log bridges to get there and my hand was completely cramped from holding the railing so tight. These tricycles are so sketchy, we bottomed out twice and the one that Paige and Bry were in got stuck in the mud and they had to get out and push it. It was scary and hysterical at the same time. Nacpan itself is absolutely breathtaking. Crystal blue water and fluffy white sand. Again, I can't believe how deserted these beaches are! We played in the waves for a few hours, ate a little lunch at a beach shack and then jumped back in the metal cages on wheels. Our drivers dropped us off at an inconspicuous hut on the side of the road and an adorable adolescent Filipino girl offered to guide us on our hike to the waterfall. We trekked through the jungle for about 25 minutes before coming to the waterfall. There were a few locals there but they quickly cleared out once we arrived. We jumped in and swam around, the water was cold and refreshing compared to the ocean. I could've relaxed there for hours but we wanted to see the sunset so we took off early. I went back to the rasta restaurant for some reggae and a veggie salad for dinner. It isn't very vegetarian friendly around here so my diet has been consisting mainly of rice or a raw veggie salad. Not very exciting but still delicious and I'm not complaining.

Nov 18: For our last day in El Nido we rented a chartered boat with 5 other people from the hostel and did our own island hopping tour. The first stop was Secret Beach and we had to swim through a small opening in a rock to reach it. The tide was so strong that you had to wait to be pulled out and then ride the wave through the opening before it sucked you back. The second island we hit had the best snorkeling we've done so far. Bright blue starfish, sea anemones, clown fish, etc. Rei and B saw a shark while I was laying on the beach and that made the rest of the day a little scarier, especially when the next island required a solid 15 minute swim through dark blue water to get to a raft. The raft was made of rickety old wood that you could feel bending beneath you. We all jumped back into the water one by one to start our swim back and one of the French girls decided she wanted a running start. Her foot broke through the wood but luckily her weight was already forward and she made it into the water. Had she been hurt I would've felt bad but it was absolutely hysterical. After hours of snorkeling, BBQing, and swimming, we made our way to the final island, completely deserted and the perfect spot for watching the sunset. I had so many moments today where I had to stop myself and look around. I'm getting so used to the scenery in Southeast Asia that I have to remind myself to pause and breathe in the beauty of my surroundings. I try to soak it all in because I know there will come a day when it's just a beautiful memory.

Up early tomorrow to head to Coron, an island famous for its wrecks. We're taking a 7 hour ferry to get there and I could not be dreading it more. I hope they sell some sort of horse tranquilizer on board or else I'm not sure how I'm gonna get through it without getting sick. Coron better be worth it! On the agenda: scuba diving, beach days, and bungee jumping (Mom- don't freak out)

 

Philippines Thus Far

It's hard to keep up with the blogging and wifi is never a guarantee around here so I'm starting to keep a daily log of everything I'm doing and will post a few days at a time whenever I can. Taking this blog diary style. Here are the last 5 days!

Nov 12-13: Landed in Manila and got to the hostel late. Woke up and explored the city with Bryony, Paige, and Rei. We gorged ourselves on pancakes for breakfast and got lost amongst the beautiful gates of foreign embassies. Flew out to Puerto Princesa tonight and are heading to the underground river tomorrow and then on to El Nido! We had dinner tonight at the local hotspot. It reminded me of a carnival at home. Right on the water, dozens of little stands set up selling food and souvenirs. Filipino children chasing eachother around, teenagers sharing towers of beer, and adults dancing to the beat of the music. We were the only white people so you know it was authentic. I get nervous in those situations because I never know if were going to get robbed or raped. But as usual, everything was fine. I think Southeast Asians are known for their friendliness so maybe I should let my guard down a little. "Hello ma'am, thank you ma'am, you are very pretty ma'am!" Filipinos are so polite! Plus water here is FREE.

Nov 14: Woke up at 7am and hopped on a bus to check out one of the 7 natural wonders of the world! The underground river is an 8km long river underneath caves of rock and calcium deposits. We had to take a motor boat to the opening of the cave and then hop on a paddleboat to actually go through the river. It was dark with bats flying around and water dripping from the ceiling but it's unlike anything I've ever seen. A total of 45 mins though and I was happy to see daylight again. We got back in the van and were on our way to be dropped at the bus station for El Nido when the van made an unexpected stop. Called Ugong Rock, we thought we were taking a bathroom break and ended up rock climbing through this cave and then ziplining to the bottom. So much fun! Hopped back in the van and held on for dear life as this driver drove roughly 100mph down a road that sharply turned left and right every 100ft. We finally made it to the bus station alive and climbed onto the bus to find it filled with Filipinos. Luckily I got the front seat and avoided car sickness for the next 6 hours. This country is breathtaking. Or atleast this island of Palawan is, and I'm sure the rest of it is just as gorgeous. We showed up having no idea where we were sleeping tonight, so happy to have made it to a hostel with a hot shower and working wifi. Plus our beds have curtains around them which I always love because its like my own little room. I don't know when I'll unpack my backpack again but I'm slowly adjusting to this lifestyle. I'm hoping I can survive without doing laundry until I get back to Bangkok in a month. I've resorted to not wearing underwear and most days the most I get dressed is a bathing suit and a sarong so I should be able to make it happen. Could really use a nail salon though, if my fingernails get any longer they're going to start growing veins.

Nov 15: A much needed day of relaxation today. Slept in a little bit, had free breakfast at the hostel (score!) and then headed to the most beautiful beach. Its a mystery to me why the Philippines are not a huge backpacking destination. Had this been in Thailand or Bali the beach would have been packed. Instead there were only a handful of tourists and a few local families. We swam in the ocean and napped in the sand all day. Had lunch in an adorable gazebo right on the beach. Sipped fresh fruit smoothies, ate veggie salad, and played scrabble before walking down the beach and passing out again. Woke up to the sun going down and a (slightly) cool breeze coming off the water. Ahh, paradise. Jumped on a tricycle taxi and explored the little town a bit. Stumbled upon a local basketball game and sat in the stands to watch the game as all the other spectators watched us instead (white people?!). Dinner cost about 85 cents and for $22 tomorrow were doing a full day island hopping tour. Can't wait!!

Nov 16: Had a full 8 hour day of island hopping. Snorkeling, swimming in secret lagoons amongst mountains of rock, and eating fresh seafood cooked right on the beach, today was complete bliss. You can't beat swimming with electric blue fish and watching the sun go down while swinging in a hammock on a desolate island. It took the better part of an hour to comb the dreads out of my hair and my legs are all scraped up from coral but it was totally worth it. (Even after the cuts and scrapes on my legs and feet, I still think water shoes are for dorks). Follow all of that up with dinner on the beach to the tunes of Bob Marley and I'm going to sleep a very happy girl. Oh ya and I dropped my laundry off! Sunday funday has been a success.

My First Thai Massage

Upon landing in Bangkok, I had 2 things I needed to do; eat pad Thai, and get a Thai massage. Following the recommendation of the hostel workers, I headed to Tony's Massage around the corner. For 100 baht I could get a one hour traditional Thai massage. That's roughly 3 USD, how could I possibly go wrong? I'll tell you how.

I proceeded to follow the Thai man upstairs to a small rectangular room consisting of 5 mattresses on the floor, 4 of them occupied and 1 behind a curtain that would become my torture chamber. The experience started off with a typical calf and thigh massage, my knots being kneaded out by the strength of this small Asian man. I typically never speak up during a massage when the pressure is too strong, always telling myself that the pain will be worthwhile in the end. But when I opened my eyes to see this man's elbow angrily digging into my thigh, I somehow found my voice. "Ouch, too hard" I said. To which my assailant flashed a sadistic grin and continued his attack. This was only the beginning. 

There came a point, when my foot was tucked behind my ear that I wondered if maybe, in the dim lighting of the room, this man had mistaken my 5'1" frame for that of an Asian. Surely he knows most westerners can not bend that way. Thank god for years of yoga or I may have seriously injured myself. When it was finally time to flip onto my stomach I was relieved, the shoulders are always my favorite part of a massage. Fast forward 5 minutes to a knee in my rib cage and thumbs pressing into my skull with the strength of an elephant. It was at this point that I began to fear for my life. Surely that much pressure on my neck and spinal chord can't be good. "Just breathe, you'll be okay, you will make it out of this alive" I told myself. And then the pressure increased. I was convinced my eyes were going to pop out of my skull and I wondered who it would be that would eventually find me here. Would I suffocate or would my head burst under the pressure of these inhumane Thai hands? I didn't want to find out the answer to that question.

After enduring 20 minutes of pain in my neck and shoulders, my torturer instructed me to sit up. I had just started to accept defeat, accept that I would walk out of this place with my lifeless arms dangling from the sockets, my knees shaking and buckling beneath me, when I heard it: a blood curdling scream coming from the woman two beds away from me. "I'm not alone" I thought, "she too is being tortured". I tried to communicate to the other victim telepathically, "I feel your pain, they are doing it to me too. Stay strong, we'll make it". The realization that I was not the only victim in the situation gave me the strength I needed to push through. I began to wonder if this establishment had ever been investigated, there's no way this is humane. And then I remembered that the staff at the hostel had actually recommended it. What kind of masochists am I staying with? 

One last karate chop to the back of my neck and the torture was finally over. I quickly threw my clothes back on, tossed the money on the counter and pushed my way to the sidewalk. I had made it out alive but a part of me would never be the same. My body had been contorted in ways I never thought possible. My brain, still trying to process what I had just endured, could not remember how to get back to the hostel. After a few wrong turns I made my way in a circle, back to the scene of the crime and managed to stumble my way home. 

"What have I done to deserve this?" A question that repeated itself in my mind throughout the "massage" remains to be unanswered. You've won this round Bangkok, but I'll be back.

*note: this story has been dramatized for comedic effect. I'll probably get another massage tomorrow. 

Until Next Time

Sad to be leaving Bali today. After a month and a half it really started to feel like home. Spent the last few days in Canggu, a surfer town on the west coast with beautiful beaches and beautiful people. It has a much more laid back vibe than some of the other popular beach towns and after the sensory overload in Ubud and Seminyak, I found it very refreshing. 

I found a gem of a hostel that felt more like a vacation home and met some pretty awesome people. If you are ever in Canggu stay at The Temple, for $14 a night you get a room cleaner than my own at home, a sweet pool, and a kitchen. Plus Berlin, the Balinese guy that runs it will show you a fun time and teach you to surf (or go catch some waves with you if you're already a pro). 

In the last 3 days I cruised around town on the back of a motorbike, watched the cotton candy colored sunset on the beach, learned to surf, taught my first yoga class, ate fresh Mahi Mahi and rice using a palm leaf as a plate and my fingers as utensils, and danced all night to live music at the local hotspot (Deus is the place to be on Sunday nights).  I'm really going to miss this place but I'm pretty sure I'll be back before long.

Off to Bangkok for the next 48 hours. I'm excited to do some solo exploring and see what this crazy city is all about. On my to do list: get multiple Thai massages, eat copious amounts of pad Thai.....that's all I've got (suggestions welcome). I don't speak a word of Thai and I have none of the local currency in my wallet, or any idea what the exchange rate is. But that's all part of the adventure..

Thailand here I come!

Life is but a Dream

I always hate goodbyes. They are so final and so melancholy. I much prefer a see you later. So 25 see you laters have been said and now here I am in Ubud, back to my original travel companions; my backpack and my yoga mat. Plus a couple of friends I picked up along the way. Happy to have spent  the last few days with an incredible group of people in the spiritual heart of Bali. From teaching a karma yoga class at the local school for children with disabilities to salsa dancing and late night talks by the pool, we definitely made the most of our last week together. I am so grateful for our special circle and the lifelong connections I've made. It was a life changing month and I'm humbled to have spent it with so many inspiring individuals. We've officially made it to the starting line! Now the real adventure begins! 

Ubud is a bit of sensory overload coming from a month in the mountains more or less isolated from civilization. Clothing shops line the streets, filled with tourists and motor bikes zipping by. There is a vegan cafe on every corner and laughing buddha statues everywhere you turn. The balanced feeling I had leaving the mountains dissapated quickly and I found myself feeling homesick and totally confused the last few days so I decided a day of pampering would make me feel better. After a stressful 2 hours trying to find FedEx to ship a package home, I settled on the post office, spent $80 to ship home some books and clothes that I won't be needing (which takes 2-3 months by the way) and I ended up poolside for a few hours in the sun. Then I hit up the spa and for $50 got a mani, pedi, facial, full body massage, sea salt body scrub, and a bubble bath with rose petals. Follow that with a delicious, healthy dinner at a beautiful restaurant for $10. God, I love the prices here. Amazing what a trip to the spa and some good food can do for you! 

I feel completely rejuvenated and ready to conquer this next adventure. Just have to conquer the monkey forest tomorrow and then I'm saying see you later to Ubud, and heading onward. I'm not sure where yet but I know it will be on the coast. I've got another 6 days to kill in Bali before I leave for Bangkok and I have every intention of spending them on the beach.

Stay tuned!

What Day is it Anyway?

Finally made it to the beach last week! A day off enjoying the sunshine was exactly what I needed to recharge and focus again on the last 2 weeks of the training. Hard to believe its coming to an end already, I feel like I just got here. I've learned more than I thought and most of it doesn't even have to do with yoga. Being secluded in the mountains really allows for introspection and self growth. 

My word of the year has been surrender. Surrender control and learn to go wherever life pushes you. Stop planning and instead start living in the moment. Be present and realize that life only exists in the present moment. Right here, right now. The past and the future exist only in the present moment. So far I'm happy with where this mind set has gotten me. Here I am, in Bali, enjoying every second and recognizing how blessed I am just to be alive and to be on this journey. So immersed in the moment that I usually don't even know what day of the week it is. 

Eventually though, you do have to make some plans... So after this training ends in 2.5 weeks, I'm hopping on a ferry to the white sand beaches of the Gili islands for a few days, flying to Bangkok for a couple nights and then jetting off to the Philippines for a month of island hopping. Life is pretty exciting right now!

So excited for all that lies ahead but being mindful to bring that excitement into every day and not just a future experience. 

Yesterday is history, tomorrow is a mystery. Today is a gift, thats why they call it the present! :)

The Art of Letting Go

"All changes, even the most longed for, have their melancholy, for what we leave behind is a part of ourselves. We must die to one life before we can enter another." Anatole France

This week's theme has been letting go. It's such a seemingly simple concept yet it is so difficult to do. "The art of letting go" was an alternative name for this blog so I guess, in a way, I've been practicing this art for quite awhile. Booking this training, buying a one way ticket, leaving my comfortable life at home, in search of something greater. Yet there are constantly experiences, people, even material things, that keep surfacing begging to be let go of. I'm learning that when this happens, you can't fight it, sometimes you just have to surrender to what is and have faith in what will be. Afterall, the only constant in life is change.

It's hard to believe that I haven't even been gone for 2 weeks. It feels like a lifetime. Not having steady internet access really detaches you and forces you to live in the present moment. Its crazy how much we miss by being so attached to technology. This past week I went on a hike through the local rice paddy ending at a natural hot spring. The views of the rice paddies were breathtaking. I almost couldn't believe how vibrant and vivid everything was. And the beauty of it all is that I was present. Not having access to wifi means not being able to share these incredible moments with everyone via social media. Instead of boasting about what I was doing or seeking validation via instagram likes, I was able to stand still, look around me, and breathe in the beautiful reality before me. 

And then I climbed into the hot spring, sinking down into the mud and covering myself in it before realizing that the orange tint actually tinted my skin and bathing suit. Woops. Finally leaving the mountains this week and heading to the beach for a day! Ocean and civilization will be a nice change of pace from life on the commune at Prana Dewi. Looking forward to salty hair and sandy toes :)

xo Molly

Bali Life

Finally made it to Bali after traveling for 3 days straight. My expectations of this place did not even come close. It is absolute paradise. I had some reservations about being in the "mountains" vs being at the beach since I am such a beach girl at heart but its so beautiful and calming being in such a secluded place.

Prana Dewi, my home for the next 30 days is comprised of a handful of bungalows spaced out amongst the rice paddies, a small open air restaurant, a yoga studio, and a gorgeous pool filled with natural mountain water. The bathrooms of the bungalows are completely outdoors, the toilet and sink area are covered by a little roof but the shower gives a new definition to outdoor shower. It is a bamboo stick that water flows from out onto a little wooden patio surrounded by luscious plants and tiny geckos running around. 

I wake up every morning at 6am to roosters and some Indonesian chanting. Follow that with a half an hour of meditation and I'm feeling pretty zen after only 3 days of being here. Its funny that my biggest qualm was not having internet access because now the disconnection from the outside world is one of my favorite aspects about this process. I thought it would be a difficult transition but it hasn't phased me at all. I have no desire to check emails, social media, or text messages. I know there probably won't be another time where I have the opportunity to completely tune out so I'm taking full advantage of this technology cleanse and opting to check in only once a week. There's too much to enjoy here to spend my time on an iPad. Tomorrow after dinner I'm getting a one hour massage for $8!

So excited and grateful for this opportunity to be immersed in this yoga teacher training and focus entirely on myself. I can't wait to put everything I'm learning to use and actually start teaching! I still have so much adventure lying ahead, so much unknown, and so much possibility. Feeling very positive about life and grateful to myself for making my dreams happen.

The pictures really don't do it justice- I'll try to get better ones later!

Xo Molly

Singapore for One

Made it to Singapore! Feeling discombobulated because I swear I just left San Francisco a few hours ago and it's was 2pm on Monday. Now I'm sitting in the middle of a koi pond in the Singapore airport and it's 3am on Wednesday. Which means I'll be in Bali 6.5 hours!!! What a blessing that I sleep so easily on airplanes. 

Side note I just looked up and saw 3 Singpore military men patrolling with machine guns, so that's comforting...

Currently looking forward to: a shower, brushing my teeth(which I've already done at the airport), and breathing fresh air because if I count correctly it's been over 24 hours since I've stepped outside. 

Highlight of the trip thus far is definitely the ice cream cookie sandwich they gave us on the plane. 

Going to go explore the butterfly garden and other bizarre attractions that this airport has to offer.

Next update will be from Bali!! And probably not for awhile but I'll try my best :)

Xo Molly

Taking Off

My last day in America before I take off for Bali tomorrow. I think I've felt every emotion in the past week; from eagerness and excitement to anxiety and sadness. But now as I sit here lounging by the pool in San Francisco, I can't help but be amazed at how awesome my life is. I am so grateful to be exactly where I am in my life. I have no obligations, and so much adventure lying ahead of me. For as long as I can remember, I've been talking about this dream of mine to travel the world. Sometimes I doubted if I would ever take the plunge but the urge was too strong to ever deny. Now here I am, 24 hours away from hopping on a plane and living my dream!

Tomorrow I will board a plane with a backpack, a yoga mat, and no plans of when I will return. The first 6 weeks will be spent in Bali, living on a rice paddy and emerging myself in a 200hr intensive yoga teacher training. After that, I have absolutely. no. plans. Wherever I want to go and whatever I want to do, the world is my oyster! 

The scariest part of this entire adventure is not that I'm going halfway across the world, or that I'm traveling alone. The scariest part for me is that I'm not going to have internet access for 30 days, and after that who knows? How am I supposed to check in on my friends and fam? No snapchat or instagram? I hate to admit that my life has become so absorbed with social media and less focused on what is going on around me in the current moment. As hard as it will be, I'm excited to detach myself from this online world and tune into the present. 

I have so much to see and so much to learn. Can't wait to find out where this journey takes me!

xo Molly